Lapas attēli
PDF
ePub

used. This permits larger plates without sacrifice to good perspective, etc. And further, the great light passing power of the focal plane shutters almost invariably fitted (except with twinlens cameras) enables smaller stops to be used again permitting augmentation of plate size, with proportionate increase of focal length.

Bearing in mind the question of enlargement suitability and giving full force to the excess of bulk and weight of reflex cameras over scale focussing instruments of the ordinary box form taking the same size plates, 5 x 7 inches, should be considered the extreme limit for a camera of the reflex type for ordinary work. Such an apparatus is decidedly ponderous, and unless contented with 5 x 7 inch prints, the far greater portability of the 4 x 5 inch size, the much superior enlarging qualities of the negatives it yields, and the greater practicable reserve speed of its lenses, should insure its selection. The quarter plate size of this camera is of course optional, but the preponderence of preference is in favor of 4 x 5 inches. This type is not particularly desirable for touring. The high coefficiency of their focal plane shutters in connection with the exceedingly rapid lenses available make these cameras as indispensable for obtaining fully exposed negatives of feebly lighted subjects, or where color screens, or medium speed plates are used, as they are for high speed work.

Where systematic enlarging is intended, care must of course be given to producing a certain well known technical type of negative. If bromide paper is not to be relied upon, but enlarged negatives made from the small originals, particularly if daylight illumination is to be employed for the purpose, this special quality of the originals need not diverge much from the normal, nor unfit them for any modern contact printing process whatever, unless perhaps the carbon be excepted.

It will be noted that in connection with camera size, etc., no direct reference has been made to the relative merits of direct or indirect prints, or to the power large aperture lenses convey for rendition of atmospheric effect, differentiation of planes, softness of definition, and the like. To a certain extent, however, considerations relating to these matters have been incorporated in the ideas expressed respecting large apertures, depth of field, enlarging suitability, etc. An analysis of the ques

tion here would lead either to undue extension of an already somewhat lengthy dissertation, or else involvement in confusion; even if, indeed, it would not be useless to attempt to apply rules to matters so much dependent upon varying personal

taste.

While not strictly germane to the present subject, I can not forbear emphasizing the great necessity in hand camera work of reliable shutters of the highest co-efficiency, particularly when films are used, usually considerably slower than fastest plates.

Finally, it is certain that whether the chosen size is large or small, or prove to be the best all round choice or not, it will be particularly well adapted to some special purpose, and the success of results in any case will depend mainly upon yourself.

It is not expected that all will agree with the expressions of this fragmentary paper. When dealing with subjects of this character it is, at times, very difficult to determine where actual knowledge ceases and mere opinion begins. But, if these imperfect notes serve no other purpose than to assist some few others in arfanging and clarifying their own ideas, even if only by disagreeing with mine, my effort will have been worth while.

[graphic][merged small][merged small]
[graphic][merged small][merged small]

THE POSSIBILITIES OF KALLITYPE.

By ELEANOR W. WILLARD.

OR several years I have been interested in the Kallitype process, having first made experiments with Mr. Hall's formulæ as published in The Photo-Miniature, No. 47. Very perfect and beautiful prints may be made by his method, but for simplicity the formulæ recently published by Mr. James Thomson in October, '06, Photo Era, and those which I understand will be soon made public through The Photo-Miniature, are superior. With care about cleanliness of manipulation, and purity of chemicals, prints should be obtained which are strong rivals of platinum.

Many people have the idea that the home preparation of printing papers is a mussy performance, and that a great deal of labor and paraphernalia are involved. This is not at all true. Two wide-mouthed bottles into which the proper chemi

cals have been literally "dumped," are the chief stock in trade. One holds the sensitizer, the other the developer. Add to this equipment a piece of white velvet about three inches square folded over an old celluloid film, and the two edges brought together and held by a couple of small sticks, bound round by rubber bands, and you have an admirable coating brush. The velvet may be washed out and used many times before being renewed.

All aside from the economy of the process, which compared with platinum is great, there is a fascinating opportunity in it for experimenting with different kinds of paper.

The papers most suitable perhaps for general use are the ledger papers, Brown's, Weston's, or that known as general ledger, which may be obtained of any wholesale paper house. A paper which gives a result almost identical to smooth platinum is that called "wedding stock bristol," smooth finish. Any "sized" paper may be used, such as ordinary letter papers, while certain unique effects may be obtained by using unsized papers of various tints, and applying the size one's self. Next to the ledger papers, the Whatman drawing papers are the most serviceable, both in the smooth and the rough, but they require a coat or two of arrowroot size. Delightfully broad effects are possible with them.

But the papers that are most bewitching to work with are the Japanese tissues, They of course require extra care in the handling, and demand about three coats of sizing, but the results are quite worth the trouble. I believe that as fine prints may be obtained on Japanese tissues with Kallitype as are possible on the very expensive tissues commercially coated with platinum. That with which I have had the best success, is called "water-color tissue," and is to be obtained through Devoe & Raynolds. A gelatine sizing is best for these, the arrowroot being too "soft." Coating is best done on a sheet of glass. One may dry between coatings by a fire or lamp and soon have a number of sheets ready for sensitizing. When ready for developing it is advisable to pin the tissue to a piece of heavier white paper, for the sake of convenience in handling, as well as to be able to judge the depth of the print by having the white surface underneath. Otherwise the tissue is likely to give one trouble by turning on itself in the developer,

[ocr errors][ocr errors]

and one is apt to misjudge the printing, and get it too dark. Care should be taken in pinning up the tissue to dry to leave plenty of slack, as it expands when wet and shrinks again in drying and if it draws between the pins it will inevitably cause a cockle along the edge which will prevent flat mounting later. The coating formula used for the tissue and for general work is that which Mr. Thomson designates as Formula A, and is as follows:

[merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][ocr errors][merged small][ocr errors][merged small][merged small][ocr errors][merged small][merged small][merged small][ocr errors][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small]

Put in the chemicals in the order named without waiting for each to dissolve. Let the mixture stand quiet for 48 hours, then shake thoroughly, filter through cotton, and always shake before using.

The developer (stock solution) is:

[merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][ocr errors][merged small][merged small]

To seven drams of water take one dram stock solution, and add about one grain of oxalic acid, or just enough to give good blacks. Too much will give faded prints. Clear, after rinsing in hypo 11⁄2 grains to the ounce. For tissues 1⁄2 grain to the ounce is better.

Other formulæ, and detailed directions may be found in the valuable articles Mr. Thomson has contributed to the magazines from time to time.

All operations of coating and developing may be carried on in daylight, and when printing use about the same precautions as for platinum. The sensibility of the paper varies with different coatings and formulæ, but as a rule I have found it to be a little slower than platinum.

For work with tissues, a fairly strong negative of good contrasts is best adapted, although by varying the formulæ slightly, coatings may be adapted to negatives of varying densities and

« iepriekšējāTurpināt »