CHAPTER IX.

Historical Notes on Ørentford.

Early Importance of Brentford Weir.-Fisheries. -River.-Church of St. Lawrence.-Endowment of Vicarage.-The Manor.-Curious Extracts from Registers.-Brentford Witches.-St. George's.— Some Biographical Notes.-Brentford in Fiction.—The Market and Fair.-Old Games.-Coaching Days.-Ancient Bridge.-Present Bridge.-The Butts.-Historic Inns.-Grand Junction Waterworks.-County Elections. -A Memorable Royal Visit.

HE town of Brentford runs almost parallel with the Thames, and in ancient times the fisheries here were of great importance. The following is a copy of a grant relating to Brentford weir,' and is evidence of the value attached to it as early as the year 1313. "Demise by Ralph, Bishop of London, to Master Robert de Maydewelle, his cook, of his weir at Brayneford for life, for 40 shillings a year." In it, "the Bishop covenants to deliver yearly to the saide Master Robert de Maydewelle for the maintenance of the saide weir, twenty-five piles, twentyfive poles, a cartlode of lokrys, and a cartlode of virgæ for binding the above." A.D. 1313. A curious seal of Robert de Maydewelle is attached. Long ago the fishery became sadly reduced, and in Faulkner's day gave employment to few hands; he supposes that "the daily passage of the

1 Ninth Report Historical MSS. Commission, "St. Paul's Library".

steam boats has driven away the spoil." Another cause will be the enormous increase of impurities poured into the Thames by the sewers of the ever-growing metropolis, and of the large suburban districts near.

So great is the contrast between the angler's spoil in these days, and the rich harvest of the past, that one looks back regretfully, and is tempted to question the civilization which has brought about the change, and rendered impossible the continuance of so delightsome an aquatic Utopia as is represented in a description of the Thames which appeared in Hollingshed's Chronicles, in 1577. The following is a copy of this glowing picture :-"This noble river, the Thames," says the old writer, "yieldeth no clots of gold as the Tagus doth, but an infinite plentie of excellente sweete and pleasante fish wherewith such as inhabit neere unto her banks are fed and fullie nourished. What should I speake of the fat and sweete salmon dailie taken in this streame, and that in such plentie after the time of the smelt be passed, and no river in Europe," etc.

Another early writer, Paulus Jovius, speaking of the Thames in 1552, remarks the number of swans upon its waters. "This river", he says, "abounds in swans swimming in flocks, the sight of which, and their noise, are very agreeable to the fleets that meet them in their course." Swans may still be seen, on the Thames, in all their grace and beauty. They are under the special guardianship of the Lord Mayor of London, who year by year himself, or by his deputy, goes up the river in his State barge, accompanied by the Vintners' and Dyers' Companies, to mark the young swans. The swan upping or hopping' is performed in the presence of the Royal swine herdsman.

Of the churches of Brentford, that of St. Lawrence is the only one that can lay claim to any great antiquity. It

1 The taking up of the birds for the purpose of marking them.

is, as already shown, in New Brentford, and affiliated to the parish of Hanwell; but a brief retrospect of both Old and New Brentford seems necessary here as, otherwise, only an incomplete and consequently unsatisfactory sketch could be given. To mention one event which happened in part of the town, and to ignore another of equal historical importance, because the scene of its enactment, although well within the town itself, chanced to be over the border line, and therefore in another parish, is to draw too nice a distinction for the general reader or those acquainted with the local traditions, who would assuredly miss from the narrative some associations, and these by no means the least significant, which are authentically known to belong to Brentford. Such limitation would interrupt historic sequence, and must greatly deminish pleasurable interest and topographical value alike. Only the lightest touch, however, can be laid on incidents connected with the old time place, which are sufficiently remarkable to deserve fuller and closer handling.

It is especially so with the Church of St. Lawrence,' the original building of which dated back to the latter end of the twelfth century. Evidence of this is assured from the fact that Maurice de Berkeley, an ancestor of the present family, is known to have died in 1189, and to have been buried in this same Brentford chapel, as it was called, to the building of which he is said to have been a principal contributor; from which circumstance, another conclusion. may be formed, viz., that the Church was originally built by voluntary contributions. The old tower at the west end, square and built of soft white stone, now grey with age is supposed by some to have been erected in the fifteenth century; but there is little doubt that it was put up at the same date as the body of the church; those who built

1 St. Lawrence is the Patron Saint of Brentford. The annual fair was held on this festival.

churches in earlier times deeming the tower or steeple an essential. The tower is the only part of the older building that remains. In it is an ancient bell of much interest, as it is supposed to be one of the earliest cast in England. The entire body of the church was rebuilt in the year 1764, at a cost of about £2,450. Inside the church, on the west wall, is an escutcheon with the Berkeley arms cut in stone, and emblazoned.' The frame is Gothic, and on it is the

following inscription :

"This COAT ARMORIAL OF THE NOBLE HOUSE OF BERKELEY (whose ancestor MAURICE DE BERKELEY was interred Anno Dom. mclxxxix. in Brentford Chapel, TO THE BUILDING of which he had been A GREAT CONTRIBUTOR), was, on re-building THE SAME Anno Dom. mdcclxiv. HERE PRESERVED to perpetuate the MEMORIAL of so ancient a Benefactor."

Newcourt gives John de Thorynden as the first clerk instituted to the church of Hanwell with Brentford chapel annexed, in the year 1355, and he considers that St. Lawrence's was built about this date. The Berkeley memorial, which is substantiated by Dugdale,' shows that the church had an older existence. Edward the Confessor is said to have given Brentford to the Church of Westminster,' but no such gift appears in the Charter, wherein the Confessor confirms eight hides of land in Hanwell to that Abbey. At the dissolution of the religious houses, the Manor and Church of Hanwell were given to the see of Westminster, and when that bishopric also suffered dissolution, they reverted to the Crown, and were given by Queen Mary to the Bishop of London, and his successors, for ever.

Early in the sixteenth century an increase was made in the stipend of the clerk, to serve the chapel of St. Lawrence, which is annexed, as we have said, to Hanwell. The

1 This stood formerly over the old porch.

2 Baronage, vol. i, p. 532. 3 Dart's History of Westminster Abbey.

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increased endowment "originated from the rent of the ancient George Inn, by a deed of feoffment dated February 15, 1529, ten years previous to the dissolution of the convent of St. Helen's, from Joan, widow of Henry Redman, to sundry feoffees in confirmation of the said Henry's will, whereby he gave an estate to several uses, and among other things to pay the Parish Priest of West Brayneford yearly the sum of £4 16s. 4d." The deed shows that sixteen pence was then gathered weekly among the householders of West Brayneford, of some a penny, and others a halfpenny, towards the stipend and salary of a priest to minister the sacrament in the Church of West Brayneford, which, declares the same deed, "is, and by the grace of God shall be, evermore commodious, right easy and pleasant to all the inhabitants and tenants; whereas, if they should repair and go to the Church of Hanwell, distant two miles or near upon, it should be greatly to their pains and travails, by reason whereof, many of them from age, sickness, or other reasonable causes, should very rare go on labours to the said Church of Hanwell, by reason whereof they should not so often hear mass, and other divine service, as now they may in the said Church of West Braynford."

In 1650, when the Commissioners made enquiry into the state of ecclesiastical benefices, St. Lawrence's was represented as a chapel of ease to Hanwell; that Mr. Bennett, the Minister, settled there by "the Committee of Plundered Ministers", piously officiated in the cure, and performed all the commands of Parliament, that he received the tithes within the limits of Brentford, valued at £12 10s. per annum; that he was entitled to an annual rent of £3 from the George Inn, and also he had £60 per annum granted to him by the Committee, out of the impropriated rectory of