A stable is needed at the utility site. A ranger station is needed at Estes Park on the same site as the Administration Building. Quarters for the clerical employees are lacking and should be provided as soon as possible. HAWAII NATIONAL PARK THOMAS BOLES, Superintendent, Volcano House, Hawaii, United States of America GENERAL STATEMENT Hawaii National Park, comprising 187 square miles in the Territory of Hawaii, United States of America, was established by Congress August, 1916, and formally dedicated July, 1921; local administration began February, 1922. General location in midPacific Ocean, 2,200 miles southwest from San Francisco and Los Angeles, and 200 miles southeast from Honolulu. It consists of three sections. Kilauea section, 125 square miles on Island of Hawaii, includes famous Kilauea Volcano; 40-pit craters, many steaming, two recently in eruption; vast fern jungles and tropical forests; miles of tunnels and caverns, many still unexplored; deserts of volcanic ash gashed with terrific earthquake cracks, many emitting steam; thousands of acres of prehistoric and recent lava flows with rugged and fantastic formations; sulphur banks; tree molds, many formed during past season by molten lava gushing from new earthquake cracks in forest. All conveniently accessible via park roads or wellmarked trails. Mauna Loa Summit, 28 square miles, nearly 3 miles high, also on Island of Hawaii, contains Mokuaweoweo Crater, which at long irregular intervals sends floods of lava surging to the sea. Active on flank in 1916 and 1919. Connected with Kilauea section by good 30-mile horseback trail. Haleakala section, 34 square miles, on Island of Maui, contains Haleakala, "House of the Sun," the world's largest extinct crater, 10,000 feet high, 2,600 feet deep, 8 miles across. On the floor of this giant crater is a row of symmetrical cinder cones, some 900 feet high, dwarfing the Egyptian pyramids in comparison. Good automobile road to within 8 miles of the summit; good horseback trail to summit, along rim, thence down into and across floor of crater. Excellent camp sites in crater with water and forage. Comfortable concrete Rest House at summit, sleeping 30. LOCAL DEVELOPMENT Kilauea Volcano being at present the objective of nearly all visitors, our modest appropriation was used in administering this area and maintaining existing roads in excellent condtion, notwithstanding season's heavy travel. Loan of road machinery by the county assisted greatly in this work. All trails are in good shape and all points of interest properly signed. A small cottage for housing road workers was purchased. New bridge and stairway to lava tube were built; also one across earthquake crack in front of park headquarters. FORESTS Floral abundance offsets faunal famine, many finding our forests as interesting as the volcanic features. "Kipuka Pauula." a small oasis in a lava flow, contains nearly every variety of Hawaiian trees. Through the courtesy of Charles S. Judd, superintendent of forestry, an arboretum of several acres has been started near by in which many other varieties of native trees will be planted, especially the sandalwood and other trees now almost extinct. Just beyond is a magnificent koa (Hawaiian mahogany) preserved when a lava flow stopped near its base. The road to the volcano winds through a jungle of ferns, many 40 feet high, arching gracefully over the highway. WEATHER Although close to the Equator Kilauea's 4,000-foot elevation provides equable climate; the days averaging 70°, the nights 55°. The mean temperature for December and June differed but three degrees. One may hike in light clothing, but must sleep under heavy blankets. No snakes nor mosquitoes. The frequent rains cause no mud, the water vanishing into porous ground or flowing into near-by crevices and coming up next day as live steam. The superintendent's office is comfortably heated by controlled volcanic steam from one of these vents. KILAUEA MILITARY CAMP Appreciating the natural wonders and bracing atmosphere, the War Department maintains a recreation camp in the park. Over 4,000 officers and men from Honolulu spent their vacation here during the past season. Their lease has been greatly improved by landscaping and the erection of several attractive huts for officers. PUBLIC CAMP SITE The public camp site in the Ohio forest, convenient to all park trails, was well patronized by picknickers this season. Cooking grates and drinking water are provided by the Government. HOTEL ACCOMMODATIONS Kilauea Volcano House, a well-managed modern hotel with 120 rooms, including several cottages, is delightfully located facing Kilauea Crater, and within easy walking distance of all points of interest. From its windows may be seen the impressive steam columns or the lurid glow of molten lava. The invigorating climate encourages the guest to remain longer and hike the trails or try the sporty nine-hole golf course near by, with earthquake cracks for hazards. SUMMER CAMP Early this season permission was granted the hotel company to erect several small cottages for a summer camp, but the unusual volcanic activity caused the construction to be deferred until this winter. However, this camp will be open early next season, pending which the company has authorized very low weekly and monthly rates at the hotel. OBSERVATORY This institution, supported by the Federal Government, with aid from private sources, continued the work of observing the various phases of the volcano and recording seismic disturbances. In July the observatory was taken over by the Geological Survey of the Interior Department. The cooperation of Acting Director Finch during the past season was greatly appreciated by the Park Service. VOLCANIC ACTIVITY During the past season Kilauea Volcano was unquestionably the most stupendous spectacle of the national park system, surpassing even its own record for the past century. After the collapse of last September the crater slowly filled, until by December the pit contained a 50-acre lake of seething lava, 2,000 temperature. Lava geysers traveling across the surface sent up incandescent sprays 150 feet high. On December 27 these geysers spouted 10,000,000 cubic feet of molten lava within 30 minutes. In February, after three months' brilliant display, and with the crater nearly full, a large dome slowly formed on the lake, which burst with a roar, sending large sheets of lava many feet into the air. As this dome collapsed it was replaced by an enormous whirlpool, into which the liquid rock swirled with a trembling rumble. Within two days all lava disappeared, leaving only a 500-foot smoking pit into which the cooling walls crashed as avalanches. In May the volcanic gases unexpectedly returned, and the vents which had been choked by the crumbling walls were cleared by scores of tremendous explosions hurling ashes for miles into the air, and accompanied by electrical displays extending 10 miles high. Bolts of lightning from this cloud destroyed telephone poles 6 miles away. When the ash cloud or column reached a height of about 3 miles it would spread out like a mushroom, darkening the entire sky even at midday. A thunderstorm was immediately created, and the rain passing, through this cloud reached the earth as thin mud, plastering the vegetation for miles around and flattening the ferns to the ground, breaking down many small trees, and riddling the delicate foliage with pebbles of ash. Red-hot boulders weighing many tons were hurled over 1 mile, obliterating the near-by section of road by the tremendous bombardment. Other park roads were coated with slimy insoluble ash, a menace to traffic until swept off by hand. During this activity the park was rocked by thousands of earthquakes. Danger lines were established by the Park Service at the first warning, and over 6,000 persons viewed these eruptions from the hotel and other points outside the danger zone. In the first big eruption the superintendent was making a safety inspection of the rim of the crater and he and two men with him were slightly injured. A few days later a too daring amateur photographer entered the danger zone and was killed by a flying boulder 2,000 feet away from the pit. During the three-week period of explosive eruptions the crater enlarged to four times its former size, the opening now being 200 acres in area and 1,500 feet deep. During these eruptions Kilauea Volcano was the sight of a lifetime for those so fortunate as to witness it. Six weeks later, when all was again normal, a roaring geyser appeared at the bottom of the pit, sending up a steady spray of lava 200 feet high, building up a small cinder cone, and forming a 10-acre lava lake on the floor of the pit. After two weeks' brilliant display this fountain weakened, and now the volcano is again dormant, with only a glowing crack seen now and then at night in the surface of this black lake. Immense columns of steam, however, rise continually out of the pit and in the bright sunlight are most impressive to the beholder. TRAVEL DURING 1924 Travel to the Hawaiian Islands is increasing, not only from the rest of the United States, but from foreign countries. Two more steamer lines were established, and the steamer now serving Alaska during the summer months expects to operate between Seattle and Honolulu during the winter. The direct service between Los Angeles and Hawaii means much to this park. The new Matson liner will cut two days from the present time to Honolulu. Federal aid for Territorial highways insures the early extension of the concrete highway from Hilo to within 5 miles of the park entrance. Travel to this park is fairly well distributed over the twelve months, which enables the Interior Department to administer this area with a comparatively small force. The visits of many world tours and ships from the American, British, and Japanese Navies; the excellent and effective publicity obtained for the park through the Hawaii Tourist Bureau, especially through the 100,000 national park folders; the hearty cooperation of the local press of Hilo and Honolulu; and the astounding performance of the volcano all combined to bring the attendance up to 52,110, compared with 41,150 last year. RECOMMENDATIONS Appropriations which will permit full administration and protection of all areas of the Hawaii National Park. Living quarters for all permanent employees. Checking station at park entrance. Aditional roads and trails opening up new areas. CONCLUSION The many natural wonders of this area, the variety of climates, from the sultry sunshine or romantic moonlight of the South Seas to the crisp air at Haleakala's summit, or perpetual snow on Mauna Loa, combined with the knowledge that the United States Government is backing this park, guarantees a big future for the Hawaii National Park. MOUNT MCKINLEY NATIONAL PARK HENRY P. KARSTENS, Superintendent, McKinley Park, Alaska GENERAL STATEMENT Mount McKinley National Park was established by Congress in February, 1917. With the extension of the eastern boundary approved January, 1922, the park contains 2,645 square miles. It is situated in south-central Alaska, includes a section of the great Alaska range, and is about 100 miles long northeast and southwest, with an average width of about 26 miles. The altitude is from 1,800 to 20,300 feet, the latter elevation the summit of Mount McKinley. Temporary headquarters and residences of personnel are located at McKinley Park, a station on the Alaska Railroad 348 miles from Seward, the coast terminal, and 120 miles from Fairbanks, the northern terminal and the metropolis of interior Alaska. ADMINISTRATION The administration of the park is vested in a superintendent and two rangers, one ranger having been added July 1, 1924. Two prosecutions for illegal game killing were made; one conviction, one acquittal. ROADS AND TRAILS In 1923 the Alaska Road Commission expended $5,000 on a road from McKinley Park into the park. The commission is now doing more extensive work and by fall will have a highway completed to the head of Hines Creek, 6 miles. The park road budget allotted to this park $272,700 to be expended during the next three years. Upon completion of this program many of the more interesting featuresMount McKinley, its surroundings, and the big game-can be reached. For the hardier travelers saddle or hiking trips may be made through the low passes in the hills near the Alaska range. The three-year road program includes improvement to the crude trail already crossing the park, making it a sled trail. Tent shelters with stoves and signs to guide travelers are being maintained. DESTRUCTION OF GAME There was still some wanton destruction of game during the year, especially during the hunting season of 1923, when the superintendent was in the States attending the national park conference. There was then but one ranger, who could not safely leave headquarters more than a few hours at a time. 66 The butchering done by prospectors who are allowed by law to kill game when actually short of food" is having effect in the eastern portion. Comparatively few caribou ranged in that vicinity, and this year to August 1 very few have been seen. Large herds have been seen in the western portion. Mountain sheep have fared better. The results of special efforts in their behalf are gratifying. They are returning to the hills along the trail in bands of from 20 to 100. TRANSPORTATION A pack and saddle train has been operating under a permit the past two seasons. The permit contemplated three camps forming a chain extending 50 miles into the park, but only one camp, at Savage River, 12 miles from the railroad, has been erected. VISITORS On July 26 the Reedy party of 100 from Texas were at the park entrance. The entire park personnel was engaged in fighting forest fires and were unable to meet them. To August 1 about 160 visitors had stopped at the entrance. Many of them did not attempt to enter because of the pioneer conditions and cost. A party of four tourists, men and women, made a winter trip into the park last April before the "break-up " and enthusiastically demonstrated the possibility of the park as a winter as well as a summer resort. A total of 62 people actually visited the park. PUBLICITY An effort was made during the year to overcome the indifference if not animosity to the national park idea among the people of Alaska and the results are encouraging. Popularizing the project through the Alaska daily press and other publications, personal letters, talks before various civic and fraternal organizations, moving pictures, and personal conversations have been the means employed. FOREST FIRES An The entire force was engaged much of July in fighting forest fires. Surrounding McKinley Park Station and park headquarters about 30 square miles were burned over, marring the landscape in every direction, which will require years to restore. extremely dry season and a high wind made it the most spectacular and unmanageable fire seen in years. It reached the very tops of the mountains, burning the timber at their bases and the moss and lichens above timberline. Every man, woman, and child in the vicinity were at work for days extinguishing small fires near the buildings and otherwise caring for property. Headquarters, office, and household effects of the park people, with horses and wagons, were cached on a gravel bar in Riley creek for several days. No park buildings were destroyed. Three-fourths of a mile of irreparable damage was done to timber along the new highway. With portable power fire-fighting equipment such fires could be taken care of in their incipiency. TELEPHONE LINE A telephone line of duplex rubber-covered copper wire has been laid from McKinley Park to Savage River. Material is at hand for extending the circuit to Igloo, about 18 miles farther. The material and instruments were furnished by the Alaska Road Commission, the work of installation done by the park force. MINING AND PROSPECTING Prospecting in the eastern portion has been pretty well abandoned. A number of prospectors formerly in that section have gone elsewhere as nothing to encourage them has been found. Aside from a silver lead lode, as yet of unknown value, found at Copper Mountain, no important mineral deposits have been discovered. Grand Canyon National Park, established by act of Congress, February 26, 1919, is situated in Coconino County, Ariz., and embraces 958 square miles, covering 103 miles of the windings of the Colorado River in its bed a mile below the earth's surface. The titanic main gorge, from 8 to 20 miles wide at the top, with its labyrinthal side canyons, inner mountainous peaks and precipices done in kaleidoscopic colorings, forms "by far the most sublime of all earthly spectacles." The park is reached by the A., T. & S. F. Railway, branching off at Williams on the main line, 60 miles to the south. Motorists traveling west on the National Old Trails Highway turn north at Maine, about midway between Flagstaff and Williams, or take the road from the latter place if they are traveling east. The north rim of the canyon is reached by motor from Cedar City, Utah, on the Union Pacific System or from Marysvale, Utah, on the Denver & Rio Grande Western Railroad, through Kanab, Utah and Fredonia, Ariz. Prior to its establishment as a national park and since January, 1908, the area was reserved as a national monument, under charge of the United States Forest Service. ADMINISTRATION The park is administered by a superintendent, assisted by an assistant superintendent and the clerical and the ranger force, the latter consisting of a chief ranger, an assistant chief ranger, and eight rangers. TOURIST ACCOMMODATIONS AND FACILITIES On the south rim and in the canyon, tourists are accommodated in hotels and camps operated by Fred Harvey. El Tovar Hotel and Bright Angel cottages on the south rim give excellent service to visitors, and for those who take the overnight trips into the canyon, Hermit Creek cabins and Phantom Ranch are particularly appealing and up to the standard set by the Harvey Co. On the north rim the Wylie Way Camp, operated by Mrs. Elizabeth McKee, provides excellent accommodations for visitors. TRANSPORTATION The Fred Harvey Co. on the south rim furnishing autos, horses, and mules, and Jensen & Vaughn, saddle-horse operators on the north rim, adequately take care of visitors to the park to enable them to see the park to the best advantage. Since the first of October, 1923, the Harvey transportation department has added 30 head of mules, six 6passenger busses, and four 10-passenger busses to their transportation equipment. TRAVEL Much of the travel to Grand Canyon National Park is linked up with the trips of easterners to California. Until the time the quarantine went into effect on the ArizonaCalifornia line on account of the hoof-and-mouth disease, travel was 26 per cent ahead of last year for the corresponding period. The quarantine was lifted the latter part of July. Due to the fact that once travel has been routed in other directions it takes considerable time for it to resume its normal channel, the effect was felt the entire season, and this, together with much uncalled-for publicity given the forest-fire situation in California, also tended to further reduce the travel. Despite these two conditions, which certainly reduced travel to a great degree, our travel for the past season has exceeded any preceding season, which demonstrates the greatly increasing popularity of Grand Canyon National Park. The season was notable for the great increase in auto travel and is a forerunner of what Grand Canyon National Park may expect if approach roads are improved to such an extent that we may notify tourist agencies that approach roads can be traveled all year. Travel to the Grand Canyon National Park for the travel season ending September 30, 1924, was as follows: Contrary to the general impression, the Grand Canyon has not a torrid or desert climate. The altitude being nearly 7,000 feet, combined with a southerly latitude, makes climatic_conditions nearly ideal. The highest temperature during the year was 95° above, in June, and the lowest 8° below, once in December and again in January. However, the temperature seldom touches either extreme for any length of time, there being cool summer weather in summer and mild winter weather in winter. Below are tables showing analysis of weather conditions: Increased maintenance funds have made it possible to maintain our roads in a very satisfactory manner, weather conditions permitting. Our dirt roads can not be kept passable in wet weather but have been dragged after each rain. Several stretches of the Hermit Rim Road were rebuilt by contract last fall. During the past season approximately one-half mile of this road, which had greatly deteriorated, was rebuilt from our maintenance funds and chuck holes were patched throughout its entire length. On the north rim a crude road was constructed to Point Sublime from our maintenance funds. This road was quite necessary in view of the grave fire hazard and the importance of being in a position to get fire-fighting crews and material to this section speedily. The Bureau of Entomology combating forest infestation found it necessary to construct a crude road to a point near Cape Royal. This road will also be very valuable in the event of fire in that area. Some light road-working equipment was purchased for the north rim and this greatly facilitates road maintenance in that section. There is now available $100,000 for the construction of trails in Grand Canyon National Park. This sum may, at the discretion of the Secretary of the Interior, be used to purchase the Bright Angel Trail, ownership of which rests in the county, provided the purchase price is expended on an approach road from the National Old Trails Highway. There is considerable opposition to this sale throughout the county, and at this date it can not be definitely stated whether or not the trail can be purchased. An all-year road from the National Old Trails Highway to the park is an absolute necessity, and we see no way of securing it other than by purchase of the Bright Angel Trail. 1 Estimated. |