never used now except for royal All point laces are classed as Point Guipure a' bride (guipure par excellence), and Point Guipure a' Reseau. The former included all point laces where the design is connected by bars. These bars were covered with buttonhole stitches, and often ornamented with little points or picots. These were called brides or ties. In "Point a' Reseau" the pattern rests upon a background of meshed network. The much admired Brussels lace called "Guipure de Banges" is of the former variety; but the point gaze and application Brussels, which latter is Brussels lace par excellence, are point a' Reseau. The word guipure or guipe means a thick cord over which thread has been twisted. In the seventeenth century, such a cord was used to give the raised appearance to the designs; but since, the name guipure has been applied to all laces that have the pattern united by brides. The manner of working points was as follows: The pattern was traced upon parchment, lined with a double piece of linen; then a heavy thread or cord cordonet was couched firmly all around the design; next this skeleton lace was filled in with various stitches called modes, and the cordonet was worked over with close buttonhole stitches. When the fig ures were thus completed, they were either joined by brides or the intervening spaces filled a' reseau. The finished lace was carefully detached from the parchment. This process of work is still in the main the same. Many laces such as Brussels and "point de Alencon" are worked in small sections; each part is executed by a specialist, and the bits of lace are joined with invisible seams by another skilled worker. It will no doubt be surprising to find on examination that only one kind of stitch is used for the rich variety of point designs. The buttonhole stitch alone, in its different combinations, has achieved all those wondrous effects, and we find, is the unit in all the modes. The Brussels lace shows such a bewildering variety of modes that one is amazed at the ingeniousness of the workers. The patterns in this lace are all of floral designs, roses, honeysuckles and tulips,all pictured in thread with wonderful truthfulness and profusion, and arranged with most exquisite art; at times, presenting a veritable triumph of conventionalization, and again, the simple grace of natural growth. But we must return to the beginning of the seventeenth century when a perfect passion for laces developed. Venice and Belgium became rich from their exports of precious laces, especially into luxury loving France. The nobility of Europe seemed to have gone lace mad. Queen Elizabeth of England kept 3,000 lace trimmed robes; and in 1577, the king of France wore 4,000 yards of pure gold lace on his dress on one state occasion. Louis the XIV was most prodigal in his purchases of lace. This, of course, meant grave financial loss to France; and edicts were issued against its importation, but to no avail. Then the minister, Calbert, determined upon the wise strategy of developing the industry in France; if they must buy laces, they should spend their money at home. Skilled workmen were suborned from Venice and the Netherlands, and the result was that France too, became one of the great lace producers. The first laces were · called "points de France," but later were identified by the separate lo calities where they were manufactured. Therefore, we have "point de Paris" and "point de Alencon." The latter, from its great beauty, has been called the queen of French laces. While these were copies at first, they soon showed characteristics of their own, both in workmanship and design; and beau knots, feathers, cornucopias, crowns and animals found themselves reproduced in French laces. Silk lace was first manufactured in 1755; it was called blonde because it was made the natural color of the silk. Black silk lace was first made near Paris in the town of Chantilly, hence wherever this fabric may be made it is called "Chantilly lace." The most important manufacture of this is now at Bayeux and the Chantilly laces of Bayeux and Caen are worldfamed. Duchesse lace resembles Brussels applique, but the tulle foundation is not cut away. Honiton is the most important of English laces; it is executed in both the point and pillow methods. It is said to have been brought to England by Flemish refugees, and took up its abiding place in Devonshire. Irish point is made on fine batiste by stitching a coarse thread all around the design, and then cutting out the ground work and filling in the open spaces with connecting loops or punto di aria. It is more properly an embroidery. The pillow laces are not, as a rule, as costly as the needle point, the methods permitting of more rapid work. The best known of these is the Valenciennes. The art of making pillow lace is said to have originated in Valenciennes, and in 1780 some four thousand women were employed there in its manufacture. It was remarkablefor its evenness and richness of design, and was known as the "beautiful and everlasting Valenciennes." The industry is now transferred to Belgium, to the great commercial loss of France, for its consumption exceeds that of any other lace. Ypres is today the chief place of manufacture, and the Valenciennes of Ypres is the finest and most elaborate now made. On a piece not two inches wide, from two to three hundred bobbins are used, and sometimes as many as eight hundred on a wider piece. Modern lace, that which is such a favorite with this generation under the names of Battenberg and Honiton lace, differs widely from the genuine laces of that name in England, inasmuch as machine-made braids form the greater portion of the work, though the point stitches are identical. It may never have the value of the old precious productions, still beautiful results may be achieved; and as we thread the same old stitches, the knowledge of which at least may become our heritage, together with the wealth of historic designs, may we sense the dignity and refinement of all true art; may we strive to achieve something in this art that shall reflect credit upon our generation. At least, while we are trying to imitate in a manner, the precious achievements of past generations, of patient, beauty-loving woman, may we feel a new stimulus of love and interest for this gentle art, so eminently fitted for the expression of womanly refinement and aesthetic feeling, for having studied briefly its past history, and learned its importance, its mission of good to hundreds of thousands of our sex in the past. Christine D. Young. CO-OPERATIVE HOUSEWORK. Students and philosophers are deeply moved over the spectacle which is presented by the women of the nineteenth century. Perhaps no one has written so strongly, so clearly, and at the same time, so philosophically on this subject as has Mrs. Charlotte Perkins Stetson. Her book, "Woman and Economics," has been justly styled "an epoch-making book;" we cannot agree with many of her views, but she certainly has brought out the strongest arguments for the full industrial emancipation of woman that have ever been written. The burden of her argument, after stating the facts as they have existed and do now exist, is, that woman must become an industrial factor in the economy of the human race. In order to accomplish this the writer pleads for co-operative or rather for specialized house-labor. What she says in this connection is true; President Brigham Young said, twenty-five years ago, that when the United Order was established in its fullness, the work of cooking, serving, washing and ironing would be done outside of the home, and that, too, mostly by men, who were strongei, and were therefore capable of heavy and prolonged exertion. Since that time, the Christian world have been slowly but steadily advancing along these lines; we have soap, starch, lights, canned fruits, pickles, and many other household necessaries manufactured in shops, and on sale everywhere. Clothing is made in quantities, even bread is baked by the wholesale, while other articles are being experimented upon and each day adds to our list. Now, our people know well that the time is hastening on when we shall return to the central place of Zion; and there, indeed, will we be required to enter into the Order of Enoch. Are we looking forward to this with any practical experiments or plans? Few women there be who would not gladly hail the day when the drudgery of the house shall be removed. Men have so organized and specialized their labor that each one knows his own particular work, and does it, well or otherwise. But women are still maids-of-all-work, illy-regulated, poorly equipped, for the battle of life, and surrounded with primitive conditions and clumsy appliances. When will the wo men of this people awake to the privileges and blessings which are theirs for the taking, and unite in an effort to study and to pray for light upon the vexed problem of domestic labor? Let us consider from time to time various aspects of this question, and discover what means we may employ to help ourselves. Meanwhile, here is a recipe for stewed canned tomatoes, which was furnished by Mrs. Zina Y. Card, and which we have passed around from friend to friend. You see, even if we do go into co-operative housekeeping in the future, just now we must sustain ourselves with stewed tomatoes "and sich," until the happy day when a light, airy, convenient, co-operative kitchen opens its doors to our eager hands: water. Not warm water, lest it sour. Next morning, set the corn on the very back of the stove, retaining the water in which it was soaked, and there let it stand and simmer very slowly, never approaching the boiling point, until a few moments before dinner. Then draw the corn over the fire, pour in One cupful of cream, and Two tablespoons of butter; thicken with One dessertspoon of flour, and add A teaspoonful of salt, and It is better to soak the corn in milk, if you have it, and some prefer the sugar and salt put into the corn several hours before it is done. One pint of dried corn. Two quarts of water or milk. We invite our friends to send us in recipes of all sorts. If they are original, say so. If some that you found somewhere and have tested and tried, let us know that, too. But send us in your tasty and appetizing recipes, and we will present them in this department. In the morning fix thy purpose. Self sacrifice, illuminated by love, is warmth and life. "For want of strong will, kingdoms and souls have been lost."Helen Hunt Jackson. "That it is bad policy to be rude to children is the 1- the things to be said against it."-H. H. Jackson. "Children have too little education in true liberty."-H. Courthope Bowen, M. A. YOUNG WOMAN'S JOURNAL ety which comes from social excite- THE ORGAN OF THE YOUNG LADIES' NATIONAL either from a sweet, even-tempered MUTUAL IMPROVEMENT ASSOCIATIONS. Published at Salt Lake City, Utah, by the General PRICE. Board, Monthly. THE GENERAL BOARD. President Recording Secretary MRS. ALICE K. SMITH MRS RUTH M. Fox MRS. JULIA M. BRIXEN MHS. HELEN W. WOODRUFF Officers of Young Woman's Journal. Board of Directors: MIRS SABAH EDDINGTON MINA MAK TAYLOR MISS AGNES CAMPBELL Mas. ADELLA W. EARDLEY EDITOR, Literary Committee: SUSA YOUNG GATES Should any subscriber fail to receive any number of the JOURNAL, please notify us at once. SALT LAKE CITY, It is a Pleasure. BE CHEERFUL. ers APRIL, 1900. causes of its worth. From the day MRS ELIZABETH C. MCCUNR "merry heart maketh a cheerful When one meets othwho are gay and cheerful, greets those who have smiles and bright words to offer in greeting, it is a delight to enter into the spirit of the time and place and be cheerful with the rest. Especially is this true when the gathering is a social one, and all have donned their good humor with their best clothes. Social excitement, aided by light, music and laughter, lends a pleasing excitement to the nerves, and produces an exhilaration which is very like unto cheerfulness. Every one experiences this common fact, and many there be who acquire such a taste for this simulated pleasure, that any sacrifice is made to enjoy the delight continuously. Social pleasure is healthful, and a valuable aid to the physical and mental vigor; but it becomes useless and even baneful if indulged in too constantly. It is a marked fact, in connection with this subject, that people who have too much of the mock gai ear |