CHAPTER IV.

NATURAL GEOGRAPHY.

AND

CLIMATE AND SEASONS.—FACE OF THE COUNTRT.—SOIL AGRICULTURE. RIVERS. LAKES. MOUNTAINS. FORESTS.

BOTANY. ZOOLOGY. MINERALOGY. MINERAL WATERS. NA

TURAL CURIOSITIES.

Climate Ann Seasons. IN Asiatic Russia the climate extends from the vine at the bottom of Caucasus, to the solitary lichen on the rocks of the Arctic ocean. Through the greater part of Siberia, the most southern frontier being about 50°, while the northern ascends to 78', the general climate may more justly be regarded as frigid than temperate; being, in three quarters of the country, on a level with that of Norway and Lapland, untempered by the gales of the Atlantic. To the south of the sea of Baikal, the climate parallels with that of Berlin, and the north of Germany, so that the finest and most fertile regions in middle Asia belong to the Chinese. The chains of high mountains which form the southern boundary of these provinces, also contribute to increase the cojd; and the sea of Baikal is commonly entirely frozen from December till May. The finest climate in these eastern parts seems to be that of Daouria, or the province around Nershinsk; and the numerous towns on the Amur evince the great superiority of what is called Chinese Tatary, which is comparatively a fertile and temperate region. The change of the seasons is very rapid: the long winter is almost instantaneously succeeded by a warm spring; and the quickness and luxuriance of the vegetation exceed description.

FACE Of The Country. In a general view of Asiatic Russia, the northern and eastern parts present vast marshy plains, covered with almost perpetual snow, and pervaded by enormous rivers, which, under masses of ice, pursue their dreary way to the Arctic ocean. Even the central parts of Siberia seem destitute of trees, vegetation being checked by the severe cold of so wide a continent. Towards the south there are vast forests of pine, fir, larch, and other trees, among which is a land of mulberry, which might probably thrive equally in many climates which are now destitute of that valuable tree. The sublime scenes around the sea of Baikal, are agreeably contrasted with the marks of human industry, the cultivated field and the garden*. Even in the south, the rivers have already acquired the size of the Danube, and the Rhine, and they are navigable with safety for a great extent. The vast

* See Bell's animated description of this region.'

plains called stepps constitute a feature almost peculiarly Asiatic; but the mountains do not correspond in dignity, rather resembling the Appenines than the Alps, or even the Pyrenees.

Sqil Ann Agriculture. Many parts of Siberia are totally incapable of agriculture; but in the southern and western districts the soil is of remarkable fertility. Towards the north of Kolyvan, barley generally yields more than twelve fold, and oats commonly twenty fold*. Buck wheat, in this black light mould, is apt to run into stalk, but sown in the poorest spots yields from twelve to fifteen fold. Exclusive of winter wheat, most of the usual European grains prosper in southern Siberia. It is remarkable that the culture of potatos has not yet appeared, the Russians having some strange prejudice against that invaluable plant. In some parts flax grows wild, and hemp is also prepared from the nettle. Woad is found in Siberia, and saffron near the Caucasus. The culture of the olive tree has been attempted near Astracan, and the heat of the summer was sufficient, but the winter cold too severe. The best rhubarb abounds on the banks of the Ural, or Jaik, in the southern districts watered by the Yenesei, and in the mountains of Daouria, and might be cultivated with advantage in these its native regions.

But in all part3 of the Russian empire agriculture has made little progress; nor indeed is it possible while the peasantry are slaves, and sold with the soil: and if even a free farmer acquire a little money, a noble neighbour will seiae the fruits of his industry. In spite of these obstacles an intelligent traveller was surprised at the abundance of buck wheat, rye, barley, oats, and other grain which he observed to the south of Tobolsk; where the cattle were also very numerous, and in the whiter fed with hayf. Nay, he assures us that in 1720, when he accompanied the Russian ambassador to Pekin, he observed to the south of the sea of Baikal rich crops of wheat, rye, barley, oats, buck wheat, and peas, besides culinary plants; but the inhabitants had not then begun to plant any fruit trees, though in his opinion they would prosper, as the snow never lay above two months on the ground. The large garden strawberry, called haut-bois, is found wild in the territory of Irkutsk and on the Altaian mountains, the red currant attains the size of a common cherry, ripening in large bunches of excellent flavour. Near the Volga and the Ural, are excellent melons of various kinds. Bees are not known in Siberia; but among the Bashkirs, to the west of the Uralian chain, form an article of great advantage to the farmer.

Rivers. Some of the largest rivers of Asia belong to the Russian empire, nearly equalling in the length of their course any others on the globe. The Ob, including its wide estuary, may be said to hold a comparative course of 1900 British miles; while that of the Yenesei is about 1750; and that of the Lena 1570. In the same mode of mensuration the Hoan Ho of the Chinese, will, in its wandering progress, exceed the Ob; while the Kian Ku, pervading the centre of China, may be traced, if the Porticho be included, for a length of about 2300 miles!

Tooke's View, iii. 238. f Bell, i. 228. 8vo. edition.

Ib. 326.

Ов.

The Ob may be traced from the lake of Altyn, latitude SI", if its source be not even followed along the Shabekan river to latitude 47°. The upper Irtish flows into the lake of Saisan, whence it issues under the name of Lower Irtish, and after a circuit of great extent joins the Ob below Samarof. It rises about the 45°, and ought perhaps to be regarded as the principal stream. But such doubts are frequent concerning the Siberian rivers in particular, the names, and distinctions proposed by ignorant barbarians, usurping the place of exact geography. However this be, the Ob, piercing the Altaian chain, after having received many small streams, passes Kolyvan, and at some distance to the north, receives the Tomm, and other large rivers from the east. Below Samarof, as already mentioned, it receives the great river Irtish, and runs into the sea of Ob, a gulf of the Arctic ocean. The Ob is navigable almost to its source, that is to the lake of Altyn, and abounds with fish, but the sturgeon of the Irtish are the most esteemed. After it has been frozen for some time, the water becomes foul and fetid, owing to the slowness of the current, and the vast morasses; but the river is purified in the spring by the melting of the snow. This is justly and universally esteemed the largest river in the Russian empire. The shores and channel are generally rocky till it receive the Ket; after which the course is through clay, marl, sand, and morasses.

Yenesei. Next is the Yenesei, which is considered as deriving its source from the mountains to the south-west of the Baikal, in th» river called Siskit; but the name Yenesei is not imparted till many streams have joined, when it holds its course almost due north to the Arctic ocean. Yet with far more propriety might the Yenesei be derived from the sea of Baikal, whence flows the Angara, afterwards absurdly called Tunguskaf, being a stream of more length and importance than the Yenesei, so that the name of Angara might be continued till it join the Arctic sea. This river has some rapids, but is navigable for a great way.

Angara.

The Angara, afterwards called Tunguska, is said to be about a mile in breadth, when it issues from the Baikal, and is so clear that the pebbles at the bottom may be seen at the depth of two fathoms^. The channel is full of rocks for the space of about a mile from its egress; and there is no passage for the smallest boats, except along the eastern bank. "The waters dashing upon the stones make a noise like the roaring of the sea, so that people near them can scarce hear one another speak. I cannot express the awfulness with which one is struck at the sight of such astonishing scenes of nature, as appear round this place, and which I believe are not to be equalled in the known world. The pilots and sailors who navigate the lake, speak of it with much reverence, calling it the Holy Sea, and the mountains about it the Holy Mountains; and are highly displeased with any person who speaks of it with disrespect, or calls it a lake}".

• Pennant, Arc. Zool. clxi.

There are two other rivers cf this name farther to the north, the largest joining the Yenesei in latitude 66°. But Mr. Pennant's Mangazea seems very doub-ful, if it be not the village, or station called Tourouk Hansk.

SELINCA. The Selinga is a noble river, further to the south, which flows into the sea of Baikal*, after receiving the Orchon and other rivers, among which is the Tula, or Tola, the last stream that occurs till the wide desert be passed, which here divides the Russian empire from China proper. The territory adjacent to the Selinga and the Onon is the most interesting in Siberia, abounding with new, and truly Asiatic botany, and zoology.

Lena. The last of these large rivers is the Lena, which rises to the west of the sea of Baikal, running nearly parallel with the Angara, from which it is separated by a chain of hills. The Lena receives the Witim, and the Olekma from the Yablonnoy mountains; and, till near Yakutsk, pursues a course from the south-west to the north-east, a direction of considerable utility, as affording navigation to the remote regions. From Yakutsk the course is nearly due north; the channel being of great breadth and full of islands. The current of the Lena is generally gentle, and the bottom sandy. Travellers sail from the Lena into the Aldan, thence into the Maia, and the Yudoma, their route to Ochotsk, and Kamtchatka, being thus expedited.

Such are the most important rivers of Asiatic Russia, the Volga having been already described in the European division.

Yaik. The Yaik is a considerable stream which flows into the Caspian: the name was recently changed for that of Ural, on account of a daring insurrection of the tribes bordering on the Yaikf. The Terek also joins the Caspian on the west, and its chief consequence is derived from the fertility of its shores. The Kuban, or ancient Hypanis, runs in an opposite direction into the Euxine, the lower shores being plain, and destitute of wood, while near the sources are large forests.

Towards the other extremity of Asiatic Russia is the Anadir, which pervades the country of the Techuks. The long course of the Amur properly belongs to the Chinese dominions. The Argoon may be properly considered as the original Amur, while the Onon also called the Schilka, which is regarded as another source of that great river, may be considered as entirely Russian. The course of the Onon is about 500 miles; and it receives numerous streams from mountains on the north and south.^

Lakes. In the north of Siberia, the most considerable lake is that of Piazinsko. In the south the sea of Baikal is fresh, but the extent far exceeding that of any other lake; it has been described among the inland seas of Asia. Between the river Ob and the Irtish is a large lake, about half the length of the Baikal, or 170 miles in length, divided by an island into two parts, called the lakes of Tchany and Soumi. In this quarter there are many smaller lakes, and others to the north of the Caspian, some of which are salt, particularly that of Bogdo, near the small mountain so called, and considered as proofs of the northern extension of that sea. The Altan Nor, or golden lake, sometimes corruptly called Elton, is a large saline lake on the east of Zaritzin.

The Selinga might be regarded as the original Angara, or Yenesei, as the Ob, and Irtish, also pass through lakes.

This river alone rises on the east of the Ural mountains, and afterwards pierces the granitic chain, and passes west. Dec. Russ. iv. 309.

Dec H. vi. 363.

The lake of Altyn, already mentioned in the account of the river Ob, is called by the Russians Teletzko, and is considerably elevated oh the north side of the Altaian mountains; but from the best maps is not above forty miles in length, and twenty in breadth.

Mountains. The Uralian mountains have been already described in the account of European Russia.

Altai. The grandest chain in Siberia is that called the mountains of Altai, which, according to Pallas, crossing the head of the Irtish, presents precipitous and snowy summits between that river and the sources of the Ob. Thence it winds by the springs of the Yenesei, and the south of the sea of Baikal, where it is called the mountains of Sayansk. Here the Altaian chain bends in a more northerly direction to the neighbourhood of Ochotsk, under the appellation of the Yablonnoy ridge, a name implying the mountains of Apples. Branches of inferior height pass to the eastern extremity of Asia under the latter name, or that of the Stanovoi mountains. The same chain in the north of Daouria is also called the Daourian mountains; and in this quarter a lower ridge passes due south towards China.

The Altaian chain, strictly so called, is by the Chinese denominated the Golden Ridge, perhaps from the rich metals which it contains. The stepp or desert of Issim, seems to divide and distinguish it from the mountains of Ural, which bend by the west of Orenburg: and there arc salt lakes and other signs that the Caspian anciently extended iu this direction.

Bogno Alim. According to Dr. Pallas, Bogdo Tola, or Bogdo Alim, the Almighty Mountain, rears its pointed summits with striking sublimity, on the limit between the Soongarian and Mongolian deserts, while a chain extends to the lake of Altyn in the north-west, and another to the south-east, called Changay, and a snowy ridge, that of Massart, passes south, and is supposed to join those of Tlbetf; and lastly, this parent mountain sends forth a rocky aim" called Allakoola, or the chequered ridge, and by the Tartars Ala Tau, connected with the Kirgusian Alginskoi Silt." Between the last ridge, and the Massart, according to our author, rise the river Sirr, or Sihon, and the Talas. From Allakoola the Ili runs north into the lake of Palkati, or Balkash, and the Emil and Tshui flow in the same direction. From the mighty Bogdo itself rises the upper Irtish, which flows into the lake of Saizan: hence this great mountain must be situated about longitude 93°, latitude 44*. It is thus probable that the Altaian chain is connected with the southern by other ridges besides that of Massart, the deserts between Siberia, and Hindustan, and eastern Bucharia being alternate hills and plains, and extremely rocky^.

He begins with the Great Bogdo, which, as afterwards appears, is a central summit, like St. Gothard in the Alps. The western commencement *ecms to be about longitude 70°, east, from London. See Arrowsmith's map of Asia, Isleniefl, &c.

This Massart or Musart, may possibly be the Alak, (Alak Ula, or Alak Tag,) which joins the Belur Tag; but Mr. Tooke's translation from the German is far from clear, or applicable to modern maps. View of Russia, i. 145....175. See also Pallas Sur la formation des Montagnes, Paris, IT7V, abridged in the sisth volume of the Dtcouvertes Russes.

Palla*, Id.