American rivers more navigable; the Ob being impeded by ice, and the Kian Ku by the alpine rocks of Tibet*. St. Lawrence. The noble river of St. Lawrence is unirersally regarded as the second in North America, being not less than ninety miles wide at its mouth, and navigable for ships of the line as far as Quebec, a distance of 400 miles from the sea. Near Quebec it is five miles in breadth; and at Montreal from two to fourf. Though there be some rapids, yet this grand river may be considered as navigable to Kingston, and the lake Ontario, 743 miles from the sea. It is dif ficult to define the precise source of the St. Lawrence, though that name be generally confined to the river issuing from lake Ontario; while the Niagara, which flows from the lake Erie, is regarded as a distinct stream. As in Asiatic geography the Angara is traced from • From Mr. Arrowsmith's last map of the United States, with corrections and additions to 1802, and his interesting map of North America of the same date, it appears that the Missisippi rises from the Turtle Lake, lat. 47° 40%, not far to the south of the Red Lake. But from the last map, and the most authentic travellers, it is clear that the Missisippi should properly be termed the Missouri, the last being the most considerable river, and rising from sources in the western chain about 600 British miles more remote than the furthest source of the Missisippi, so that the comparative course of th« Missouri may be about 2000 British miles. The Missouri, like the St. Lawrence and river of Amazons, is a white muddy stream, while the Missisippi is clear like the Black River, which falls into that of Amazons. Charlevoix, ii. 218, has described the confluence as the grandest in the world. Each river is about half a league in breadth; but the Missouri it the broadest and most rapid. Le Page du Pratz, in his history of Louisiana, (i. 202, of the English abridgment) says that the French word Missisippi is a contraction of the savage term Meact Chassipi, which literally denotes the ancient Father of Rivers. Mr. Hutchins observes that the natives still call it Meschasipl. The precise import of the word does not seem to be completely ascertained. It is believed, however, that the word signifies the great river: or, according to some, Fish river. The terminating word, sippi, or sipi, has a very extensive range in North America, and unquestionably signifies a river, (see New Views, &c. p. 80), When the army of Soto visited, Florida, in 1539, they found different names applied to the river, in different places: but nothing like Missisippi occurs in the relation of that celebrated expedition, or rather ramble. Imlay (p. 405) observes, that the Missouri "affords a more extensive navigation, and is a longer, broader, and deeper river, than the Missisippi." The journey of a great savage traveller to the sources of the Missouri and to the great western river, Du Pratz, ii. 125, seems to correspond with recent discoveries, and the other nation probably still exists. The free navigation of the Missisippi was secured to the United States by the treaty with Spain, 1795, It is not probable that the late treaty between Spain and France, will preclude the Americans from any of the great advantages which they enjoyed by the Spanish treaty.—The inundations of the river begin in March and subside in July. It appears from Mr. Mackenzie's Voyages, 1802, 4to. p. xxxvi. that some rivers of North America have sunk more than ten feet beneath their ancient level. t Weld, ii. 56. 8vo. : Not always for this stream is sometimes denominated the St. Lawrence, though it is more generally called the outlet of lake Erie, or Niagara river. The first of these names is so appropriated that it ought to be retained in preference to any other. Volney, whose attachment to saints has never been suspected, exceedingly disliked the name St. Lawrence, as applied to any portion of that majestic river. He expressed to me a wish, that the river might be named Hoebelaga, its ancient Indian appellation. B. the sea of Baikal, without assuming the Selinga as a farther source, 9* by analogy the St. Lawrence cannot be traced beyond the lake Ontario, nor can geographical usage permit it to be traced to the lake Superior; and far less, with certain writers, to the lake Winipic, which, according to the best maps, has no communication whatever with what has been above called the sea of Canada, consisting of the joint lakes Superior, Michigan, and Huron. The length of the St. Lawrence may therefore be about 700 British miles, the breadth being the grand characteristic. The other chief rivers in North America are the Saskashawin, the Athabasca, the Unjiga or Mackenzie's river*, the Rio Bravo, which flows into the gulf of Mexico; that of Albany, which joins Hudson's Bay Nelson river and Churchill river are also considerable streams which flow into that sea; but their geography is far from being perfect. The same observation must be extended to the Oregan, or great river of the west, which, confined by a chain of mountains, runs south, till by a western bend it joins the Pacific. But the discovery of the Western regions of America will doubtless disclose some considerable streams in that quarter. Mountains. The mountains of North America are far from rivalling the Andes in the sbuth. Some irregular ranges pervade the Isthmus, but it seems mere theory to consider them as connected with the Andes, as they have neither the same character nor direction. In the Isthmus there are also several volcanoes; but the natural history of Spanish America is extremely imperfect. The centre of North America seems to present a vast fertile plain, watered by the Missouri and its auxiliary streams. On the west, so Far as discovered, a range of mountains proceeds from New Mexico in a northern direction, and joins the ridge called the Stoney Mountains, which extended to the vicinity of the Arctic ocean. The Stoney Mountains are said to be about 3500 feet above their base, which may perhaps be 3000 feet above the sea. In general, from the accounts of navigators who have visited this coast, it seems to resemble that of Norway, being a wide alpine country of great extent; while the short, like that of Norway, presents innumerable creeks and islands. This alpine tract, from the Stoney Mountains and Mackenzie's river westwards to the source of the Oregan and Beering's strait, may perhaps contain the highest mountains in North America, when completely explored by the eye of science. On the north-east, Greenland, Labradorf, and the countries around Hudson Sea, present irregular masses covered with eternal snow, with black naked peaks, resembling in form the spires of the Alps, but of far inferior elevation, mountains generally decreasing in height towards the pole. * See the artcle native tribes for further details. A high ridge passes south-west from the coast of Labrador to the source of the Utawas, dividing the rivers that fall into St. Lawrence and Hudson's Bay. The Stoney mountains run parrallel with the Pacific from Cook's entry to the river Columbia, where they are more distant from the coast and lesr elevated. The rocks west of Winnfpic are soft limestone, on the east a dark grey granite and all the great lakes are between the limestone and granite ranges. Mackenzie, 400, 401, 403. APALACHIAN MOUNTAINS. The most celebrated mountains in North America are those called the Apalachian, or Allegheny, passing through the territory of the United States from the south-west to the north-east*. According to the best maps they commence on the north of Georgia, where they give source to many rivers running south to the gulph of Mexico; and to the Tennessee and others running north. There are several collateral ridges, as the Iron or Bald Mountains, the White Oak Mountains, and others; the exterior skirt on the northwest being the Cumberland Mountains. The Apalachian chain thence extends through the western territory of Virginia, accompanied with its collateral ridges, the breadth of the whole being often seventy miles and proceeds through Pennsylvania, then passes Hudson river; and afterwards rises to more elevation, but seems to expire in the country of New Brunswickf. The Apalachian chain may thus extend about 900 geographical miles, a length unrivalled by any European mountains, except the Norwegian alps. In no chain perhaps are the collateral ridges more distinct; and a naturalist would at once pronounce that the central, or highest, must be granitic, the iext shistose, and the exterior belts calcareous. The granite seems commonly to consist of white feltspar, bluish or rather pellucid quartz, and black mica. The schistose band, generally metalliferous in other regions, here presents copper ore; and in Canada lead and silver are said to have been discovered The lime stone contains, as usual, many petrifactions, particularly the cornu ammonis, a small scallop shell, and several sorts of corals^. The height of the chief summits does not appear to be precisely ascertainedi but probably does not exceed 4000 feet above the sea; and they are often clothed with forests. Mr. Weld conjectures that the Peaks of Otter, the highest of what are called the Blue Mountains, are little more than 2000 feet in height; and at any rate much iuferior to that of Snowdon, in Wales. * Some of the North American tribes call the Allegheny mountains Txmotinck. B. †The chief summits appear to be in the state of New Hampshire; where the White mountains are, by some writers, reported to be 9000 feet above the sea. For an interesting account of these mountains, see the late Dr. Belknap's paper in the second volume of the transactions of the Ameri can Philosophical Society. See also Morse's American Geography. The Duke de Rochefoucault says, that no mountains in North America exceed the Vosges, or Wasgau, in height. Kalm, ii. 352, observes that the snow, even on the highest mountains, always melts during the summer. This with respect to the mountains east of the Missisippi, is strictly true. It is probable that the White mountains do not much exceed 4000 feet; and the glaciers of the Pyrenees at 9000 feet must shew that the White mountains are much less elevated than has been imagined. Pennant, A. Z. cexxix. Mr. Jefferson, however, says, "from data, which may found a tolerable conjecture, we suppose the highest peak to be about 4000 feet perpendicular, which is not a fifth part of the height of the mountains of South America." I can hardly doubt that the peaks of Otter are at least 4000 feet in height above the tide water of James's river. But the height of the North American mountains, in different parts of the continent, remains to be ascertained hy some future naturalists." B. The late travels of the Duke de Rochefoucault in North America, present some valuable information concerning the orology*. The primitive calcareous rock is mingled, in veins or banks, with the granitic, and is evidently contemporary. Near Philadelphia large pieces of talc appear instead of mica. There are also veins of horneblende, quartz, and marble, in the position of metallic veins. It is a remarkable feature in the mineralogy that the granitic mountains approach nearest to the sea, while at a greater distance the rocks are calcareous; and the red primitive limestone is sometimes covered with breccia, and argillaceous schistus. The lakes of Upper Canada are surrounded with calcareous rocks; while in Lower Canada, from Montreal to the sea, the granite predominatesf. At the isle of St, Helen this substance is apparent, and the mountain of Beloeil displays much black schorl. The black slate of our traveller is the black schistose limestone of Kahn. The rock of Quebec is said to consist of grey granite, mingled with schorls; and was called the rock of diamonds, because quartz crystals were found. In the vicinity blocks of granite are mingled with limestone, and the bank of Newfoundland is supposed to be a mass of granite covered with sand. Towards New York and Boston the rocks are of a soft granite interspersed with limestone and schistus; but towards Carolina and Florida the granitic mountains are at a considerable distance from the sea, which seems gradually to have retired. This traveller is of opinion that the highest mountains of North America do not exceed the elevation of the Vosges in France that is perhaps four or five thousand feet. But from the travels of Kalm a far more skilful naturalist, it would appear that the rocks of North America often consist of a substance unknown to modern systems of mineralogy, and which it has been proposed to term calcareous granite, the absence of the felspar being supplied by limestone. The Swedish traveller minutely describes this substance as consisting of grey limestone, purple, or garnet coloured quartz, and black micaj. The limestone effervesces strongly with aqua fortis; and there are some particles of felspar. Another mountain near the river St. Lawrence, is composed of red felspar, black mica, white limestone, with grains of the purple or red quartz. Sometimes this calcareous granite is schistose, or assumes the form of gneiss. Part of the hills near the isle of Orleans is composed of grey quartz, reddish and grey lime-stone, and grains of sand. Near Fort St. Frederic, or Crown Point, Kalm observed fragments of granite mixed with schorl, without any calcareous addition; and he found ammonites nbout two feet in diameter. Towards the lake Champlain he observed quantities of red sand, which seemed to be decomposed or pounded garnets. The Apalachian mountains he does not appear to have examined: but he mentions the calcareous granite as frequent in Pennsylvania, and often used in building at Philadelphia. He describes the See also the Journal des Mines, No 54. Ventose, an. 7. In the neighbourhood of the falls of Niagara, as at the bottom on the British side, there are large quantities cf gypsum, or plaster of Paris. It is sometimes called by the people of the country, "the spray of the falls." I have examined many specimens, in different states of hardness, &c. on the spot. B. Ibid. 196, 199. ii. 346, 349, 357. lapis ollaris of New England, as sometimes spotted with starry asbestos; while green soap rock and amianthus are common in Pennsylvania. The hatchets of the savages were frequently of fine basalt; their knives of quartz and petrosilex; their kettles of lapis ollaris, grey or green; and their tobacco pipes of the same substance; but those of the chiefs, of beautiful red serpentine, from the west of the Missisippi*. The mountains in the Isthmus, as well as those in the western part ef North America, are certainly of far superior elevation: and in most maritime divisions of the old and new continents the highest mountains are towards the west, as their most precipitous sides generally front the west and south. But of the Isthmus, the kingdom of Mexico and California, the natural history and geography are far from being clearly illustrated. In the province of Darien the Andes, according to the best maps, seem to expire in the ridge called Sierra Tagargona, which may be said to be lost in the sea on the west of the gulf of Darien. This ridge, with the peak of Panama, belong to South America: but the inspection of any good map of this part will sufficiently shew that the ridges in the province of Panama have not the smallest connection with the Andes, but are scattered in every direction. On the west of that province, as already stated, a considerable chain passes north and south, which may be regarded as a natural division between the two great portions of America. This chain is called the Sierra de Canatagua. The ridges in Veragua also run north and south and on the west of that province is the volcano of Vara. Of the nature and height of the mountains in Mexico there is no particular account. Not far from Vera Cruz, Chappe D'Auteroche ascended a mountain of great height, which seems to have been volcanic;f and he adds that the mountain of Orisba is said to be the highest in that region, the snowy summit being visible from Mexico at the distance of twenty leagues. On the western side of North America volcanos have been observed by navigators; one is said to exist in the state of New Hampshire^; and there are some reasons to believe, that there was formerly one in North Carolina, near the northern boundary of that statel. According to the usual arrangement of this work, the description of the new continent begins with North America, because that division contains the most important power, that of the United States. The account of their territory shall be followed by that of the Spanish and British possessions in North America. Another division shall be reserved for the native tribes, and unconquered countries; and this part shall close with a brief description of those North American islands commonly called the West Indies. * Of the same description were the celebrated Calumets, or pipes of peace, so called by the French settlers in Canada, from the Norman word cbalumeau, the native term being poagan, and the Iroquois ganoxdaa. Lahontan, i. 870. He means the head of the calumet, eight inches long, while the mouth projected about three inches; the pipe or stem, being about four or five feet in length, was probably of wood, and was adorned with feathers. Ibid. 47. Voyage to California, p. 33. t Pennant, A. Z. cexxx. Morse mentions another mountain in the same state of volcanic appearance, and 3254 feet high, if the measurement be exact. See Transactions of the American Philosophical Society, vol. iii. B. |