Such a Scamper

horsemen, the noblemen and gentry and clergy of the neighborhood, all beautifully mounted, and the greater part in red coats, leather breeches, and white top-boots. The hounds were sent into the cover, and it was a grand sight to see so many handsome dogs, all of a size, and all washed before coming out, rushing into the underwood to start the fox. We were unfortunate in not getting a scent immediately, and rode from cover to cover; but soon the cry was raised "Tally-ho!"- the horn was blown - the dogs barked the horsemen rallied — the hounds scented their way through the cover on the trail of the fox, and then started in full run. I had originally intended only to ride to cover to see them throw off, and then make my way home, believing myself unequal to the probable run; but the chase commenced, and I was in the midst of it; and, being excellently mounted, nearly at the head of it. Never did I see such a scamper; and never did it enter into my head that horses could be pushed to such speed in such places. We dashed through and over bushes, leaping broad ditches, splashing in brooks and mud, and passing over fences as so many imaginary lines. My first fence I shall not readily forget. I was near Lord Milton, who was mounted on a thoroughbred horse. He cleared a fence before him. My horse pawed the ground and neighed. I gave him the rein, and he cleared the fence: as I was up in the air for one moment, how was I startled to look down and see that there was not only a fence but a ditch! He cleared the ditch too. I have said it was my first experiment. I lost my balance, was thrown to the very ears of the horse, but in some way or other contrived to work myself back to the saddle without touching the ground (vide some of the hunting pictures of leaps, &c.). How I got back I cannot tell; but I did regain my seat, and my horse was at a run in a moment. All this, you

will understand, passed in less time by far than it will take to read this account. One moment we were in a scamper through a ploughed field, another over a beautiful pasture, and another winding through the devious paths of a wood. I think I may say that in no single day of my life did I ever take so much exercise. I have said that I mounted at nine and a half o'clock. It wanted twenty minutes of five when I finally dismounted, not having been out of the saddle more than thirty seconds during all this time, and then only to change my horse, taking a fresh one from a groom who was in attendance. During much of this time

we were on a full run.

The next day had its incidents.

The place of meeting

for the hounds was about fourteen miles from the house. Our horses were previously led thither by grooms, and we rode there in a carriage and four, with outriders, and took our horses fresh. This day I met with a fall. The country was very rough, and the fences often quite stiff and high. I rode among the foremost, and in going over a fence and brook together, came to the ground. My horse cleared them both; and I cleared him, for I went directly over his head. Of course he started off, but was soon caught by Milton and a parson, who had already made the leap successfully. I should not fail to commemorate the feats of the clergymen, as they illustrate the position of this body in England. The best and hardest rider in this part of the country is reputed to be a clergyman; and there was not a day that I was out that I did not see three or four persons rejoicing in the style of "Reverend," and distinguishable from the rest of the habitués by wearing a black instead of a red coat. They were among the foremost in every field, and cleared fences with great ease. Once we came to a very stiff rail fence; and, as the hounds were not

in full cry, there was a general stop to see how the different

2

"Hurrah for Nash!"

horses and riders would take it. Many were afraid, and
several horses refused it. Soon, however, the Rev. Mr.
Nash, a clergyman of some fifty years, came across the
field; and the cry was raised, “Hurrah for Nash! Now
for Nash!" I need not say that he went over it easily.
It was the Rev. Mr. Nash who caught my horse. Change
the scene one moment, and imagine Mr. Greenwood or
Dr. Lyman Beecher riding at a rail fence, and some thirty
or forty persons looking on and shouting, "Hurrah for
Greenwood! Hurrah for Beecher!" None of the clergy-
men who were out were young men; they were all more
than forty-five, if not fifty. They mingled in all the light
conversation of the field, one of them told a story which
I would not venture to trust to this sheet,
and they
were addressed by all with the utmost familiarity. I did
not hear one of them addressed by the title of "Mr.,"
except by myself, though most of the company were fifteen
or twenty years younger than themselves. These little
things will reveal to you more than several pages of dis-
sertation. Every day that I was out it rained, the
first day incessantly, — and yet I was perfectly unconscious
of it, so interested did I become in the sport. Indeed,
sportsmen rather wish a rain, because it makes the ground
soft. We generally got home about five o'clock; and I
will give you the history of the rest of the day, that you
may see how time passes in one of the largest houses in
England. Dinner was early, because the sportsmen re-
turned fatigued, and without having tasted a morsel of
food since an early breakfast. So, after our return, we
only had time to dress; and at five and a half o'clock
assembled in the library, from which we went in to dinner.
For three days I was the only guest here, - during the
last four we have had Professor Whewell, - so that I can
describe to you what was simply the family establishment.

One day I observed that there were only nine of us at table, and there were thirteen servants in attendance. Of course the service is entirely of silver. You have, in proper succession, soup, fish, venison, and the large English dishes, besides a profusion of French entrées, with ice-cream and an ample dessert, — Madeira, Sherry, Claret, Port, and Champagne. We do not sit long at table; but return to the library, which opens into two or three drawingrooms, and is itself used as the principal one, where we find the ladies already at their embroidery, and also coffee. Conversation goes languidly. The boys are sleepy, and Lord Fitzwilliam is serious and melancholy; and very soon I am glad to kill off an hour or so by a game of cards. Sometimes his Lordship plays; at other times he slowly peruses the last volume of Prescott's "Ferdinand and Isabella." About eleven o'clock I am glad to retire to my chamber, which is a very large apartment, with two large oriel windows looking out upon the lawn where the deer are feeding. There I find a glowing fire; and in one of the various easy chairs sit and muse while the fire burns, or resort to the pen, ink, and paper, which are carefully placed on the table near me.

I have given you an off-hand sketch of English fox-hunting. I was excited and interested by it, I confess; I should like to enjoy it more, and have pressing invitations to continue my visit or renew it at some future period. But I have moralized much upon it, and have been made melancholy by seeing the time and money that are lavished on this sport, and observing the utter unproductiveness of the lives of those who are most earnestly engaged in it, like my Lord's family, whose mornings are devoted to it, and whose evenings are rounded by a sleep. . .

...

A Figure Indeed

William H. Prescott tells his wife all about the Queen

I

[LONDON,] Thursday, 6 P.M. [June, 1850]

WELL, the presentation has come off, and I will

give you some account of it before going to dine with Lord Fitzwilliam. This morning I breakfasted with Mr. Monckton Milnes, where I met Macaulay, — the third time this week. We had also Lord Lyttleton, -an excellent scholar, — Gladstone, and Lord St. Germans, -a sensible and agreeable person, — and two or three others. We had a lively talk; but I left early for the Court affair. I was at Lawrence's at one, in my costume: a chapeau with gold lace, blue coat, and white trousers, begilded with buttons and metal, -the coat buttons up, singlebreasted, to the throat, —a sword, and patent-leather boots. I was a figure, indeed! But I had enough to keep me in countenance. I spent an hour yesterday with Lady M., getting instructions for demeaning myself. The greatest danger was, that I should be tripped up by my own sword. On reaching St. James's Palace we passed upstairs through files of the guard, — beef-eaters, — and were shown into a large saloon, not larger than the great room of the White House, but richly hung with crimson silk, and some fine portraits of the family of George the Third. It was amusing, as we waited there an hour, to see the arrival of the different persons, diplomatic, military, and courtiers. All, men and women, blazing in all their stock of princely finery; and such a power of diamonds, pearls, emeralds, and laces, the trains of the ladies' dresses several yards in length! Some of the ladies wore coronets of diamonds that covered the greater part of the head, others necklaces of diamonds and emeralds, that were a size per