244

SUNDAY WORSHIP IN THE CATHEDRAL.

[1859. ward he commanded a regiment of Mexicans under Juarez until our great rebellion. Then he became colonel of the fifth New Hampshire infantry; participated in almost every battle of the glorious Army of the Potomac, and was wounded again and again. At last, in 1864, he received the fatal shot and yielded his life for his country.

The men

The old cathedral was in the form of a cross. The congregation numbered five thousand, more than half women. looked like cut-throats, but were the most devout worshippers I ever saw. All the women wore the rebozo or broad scarf, covering the entire face except the luminous, brilliant eyes. The ser vices were conducted by an unctuous, sensuous-looking priest, who seemed in no haste to join the church triumphant.

There was an irrepressible conflict between the Mexicans and their Texan neighbors. Peons would escape into Texas, and slaves into Mexico; and both found sympathy and refuge. Several armed Texans had lately attempted to carry back an alleged fugitive after the alcalde had tried the case and declared the negro free. There was a good deal of random shooting on both sides; but the Texans were finally captured and heavily fined.

1859.]

FROM EL PASO TO SANTA FE.

243

CHAPTER XXI.

LEAVING the trans-continental route I turned northward from El Paso, taking the weekly mail coach for Santa Fe :-three hundred and fifty miles; forty dollars exclusive of meals.

Our old-fashioned stage was drawn by six mules, with a seventh led beside them for emergencies, and an eighth ridden by a young Mexican armed with a 'black-snake' whip, whose pistol-like crack and keen stroke terrified if it did not hasten the lazy little animals.

Our road was up the sandy valley of the Rio Grande, barren of vegetation but prolific of lizards and frequented by the deadly tarantula, resembling an enormous black spider.

Soon entering New Mexico, we saw no habitation for twenty miles until we reached our adobe dinner station. A little Mexican village hard by had just been ravaged by the Apaches, who entered in broad daylight, stealing every horse and mule they could find, and unresisted by the terrified natives.

At Fort Fillmore-a collection of pleasant Government barracks a slave woman black as Erebus took passage, journeying alone from Virginia to a new owner in Santa Fe.

Passing frequent villages, at midnight we entered upon the Jornanda del Muerto, (journey of the dead man.) This desert ninety miles long, contains no water except a single spring several miles from the road. Many travelers have perished from thirst, and upon the ground bleach the bones of scores of animals. But two days before us the mail party discovered two corpses by the road-side. We journeyed all night, and in the morning while we halted for men to breakfast and mules to graze, a horseman came into our camp nearly famished, as he had thirsted for twenty-four

246

ADVENTURES WITH THE APACHES.

[1859. hours. Our keg of fresh water strapped behind the coach revived him and he went on rejoicing. Good riders have often crossed the

tract without water accomplishing the journey in a day and night, and not taking food, as that always aggravates thirst.

Our conductor, a Virginian who had lived for thirteen years in this region, was an express-rider across the desert for eight years before the establishment of the mail. He had repeatedly crossed in twelve hours,

when in fear of the Apaches, who murder and rob upon its dreary road. He ran that gantlet of death one day in each week for eight hundred dollars per annum.

'Some people,' he gossiped, 'sneer at running from Indians; but I always found my heels my best weapons. Thar was one Apache band led by old chief Mangus, that came near getting me. They chased me a heap of times, and I thought oncet or twicet that I was gone under, sure. They were commonly in companies of a dozen to forty; but one day I met old Mangus alone. He was mighty glad to see me then, and powerful friendly; but I had my six-shooter cocked in his face before he know'd it. 'It's no use to play good,' says I; 'you've been after me too many times. Now you d-d old scoundrel, I've got you, and I'm bound to take your har!' How the old fellow did beg! Finally he pawned me his honor that if I'd let him off I should never be troubled again; and he kept his word. I rode here for years afterward, and often met his men, but nary one ever molested me.'

1859.]

MEXICANS AND MEXICAN WOMEN.

247

Mexican women he thought the kindest in the world. Many an American owed his life to them. They were fond of white men, which made the Greasers jealous and dangerous.

'Are the men treacherous?'

'I never had any trouble with them; but stranger, I always watch a Greaser, and at night I never let one travel behind me. It's the safe way, if you don't want to get stabbed or shot in the back.' All day without meeting a human being, we rode among dreary wastes with clumps of Spanish bayonet, grease-wood, faint tufts of grass, and solitary delicate flowers variegating the ashen landscape, and the wonderful mirage painting the far horizon. At night, the desert left behind, we lodged at a ranch where the face of the landlord, (an Indiana rover with a Mexican wife,) so revealed his Hoosier origin that he who ran might read.

The next morning we started by starlight. Day broke upon fleecy clouds drifting up from the valleys and half hiding the rugged peaks in floating draperies. Beside our road many a rough wooden cross marks the spot of some violent death. Passing travelers each add a stone to the pile at its foot, aiding to form a rude monument.

At our dining station native. women were re-plastering the adobe house with fresh mud, using their hands for trowels; but stopped to prepare our repast. Here I first saw the genuine Mexican grist-mill. It is locally known as the mitata, is propelled by one-woman power, and has been in use from remotest antiquity. One of our dusky entertainers crushed corn for tortillas, (griddle cakes) in this rude stone morter; then another pounded coffee in it; then a third pounded, mixed, and

248

CONSUMPTION OF RED PEPPERS.

[1859.

baked red peppers and buffalo meat, for the chief staple of our meal.

'Unless your stomach be strong do not eat cockroaches.' Disregarding this wise African proverb I tasted a morsel of the fiery dish. It was like red-hot iron! The natives are extravagantly fond of it. Red peppers, in general use even before the Spanish conquest, are still raised in enormous quantities. The year's supply spread out to dry upon the flat roof of each Mexican dwelling, would suffice for five hundred Americans. The pepper enters into every article of food, and is Nature's preventive of some malignant fevers common to tropical countries.

The next day we found many settlements. Each town, with its plaza, old Catholic church, narrow streets, and naked children is like every other. At every ranch sheep and goats graze the hills. Women and girls are husking corn beside every house, spreading the yellow ears upon the roof to dry. The stalk is so sweet that babies suck it like sugar.

At noon while our coach halted, a hospitable widow sent a servant with a lunch of goats' milk cheeses for the hungry passengers. We spent the night in Peralta, at the house of a wealthy native farmer.

Would Senor have supper?

Had they any tea?

'Si, Senor.'

'Any eggs?'

'Si, Senor.'
'Any mutton?'

'Si, Senor.'

Then Senor would have supper, if those articles could be prepared without onions or red peppers. It proved a savory repast.

The house, better furnished than most here, had only two rude chairs. Mattresses served for seats by day and beds by night. The smooth, whitewashed walls were hung with crucifixes, and saints in lithograph.

Our swarthy landlord was busy with his peons gathering corn, for November was close at hand. His young wife, pretty, intelligent and vivacious, went soberly about the rooms with a huge bunch of keys dangling by her side. She was the only comely Mexican