measured tread and solemn face he mounts the pulpit, drones out a hymn, which the author meant for a glad pæan of joy, as if it were a funeral dirge, then with hard, dry voice and stiff manner delivers his sermon for the day, the last word of which is greeted with a deep, if concealed, satisfaction. Why should this be so? It cannot be that the preacher is indifferent, that he does not believe the great message that he is so badly giving. Where is the animation, the enthusiasm, the desire to please of a few hours before? All sacrificed to a stupid conventionality which greater, perhaps more devout, men nobly and properly put aside.-A. P. Burbank, in Reading Aloud, Godey's Magazine, January.

To the Deputy Surveyor in charge of the Third Division : SIR-The Papal delegates to the World's Fair are expected to arrive on the steamship Majestic, due to-morrow.

You will please permit them to be transferred to the revenue cutter Grant, Capt. Thomas S. Smith, at Quarantine, immediately after the ship has been passed by the health officer. You will please notify Mr. R. C. Kerens, at the Holland House, as soon as the steamer is sighted, both by telephone and by special messenger; also the collector, at the Fifth Avenue Hotel.

Respectfully yours,

(Signed) S. N. BLATCHFORD, Auditor in charge of First Division.

Oct. 12, 1892.

This order has been carried out, as requested, by Grant.
Thomas S. Smythe, U. S. R., commanding Grant.

(Endorsed) D. J. O'CONNELL, Rector, American College. Whilst this is a Christian country, it does not give official recognition to any religious denomination. The Constitution of States is diametrically to an official

Archbishop Satolli is a man of great culture and of enormous learning. Perugia of modern Tuscany is his old home, and here his latent faculties were developed under the very eye of Leo XIII., then Archbishop of that ancient See. The Pontiff, early in his Papal career, called the Perugian professor to Rome, in which city he has held many high positions. He is a Canon of the famous Church of St. John of Lateran. He is rector of the "Academy of Noble Ecclesiastics." He filled the chair of dogmatic theology in the world-renowned College of the Propaganda until his mission to the United States. His learning is known by others than the thousands of students who have attended his lectures in Rome; for, in addition to his many professional duties, he has found time to write three volumes of philosophy and five of theology, besides many essays on various subjects.

Regarding the object of the Delegate's mission, there has been much speculation. There is no need of any. He came here to examine into the affairs of his Church. He will represent the Pope at the Columbian Exposition. There is no phase of ecclesiastical affairs with which he is not concerned; but he will deal at once with those requiring immediate attention.

Already his visit to the United States has been productive of great good. His sclíolarly mind easily enabled him to draw clearly the lines of demarcation among the rights of the State, of the Church, of the parent, and of the individual. His zeal for education extends to all its departments. No man appreciates more than he the advantages of higher education for the clergy.

Short as is the time since the Papal Delegate came to this country, he has already shown a strength of character and a breadth of view that are very encouraging to the more thoughtful and better educated clergy of his own Church. He reproves those in high places with the same consciousness of rectitude as marked the action of St. Paul when the latter felt called upon to reprimand St. Peter. He has given golden counsel to the Catholic press. Starting out with the principle that religious newspapers have just as much right as the secular press to discuss questions of politics, still he believes that such discussions should be regulated by a spirit of Christian charity. More pointed yet, and more useful still, are his words to the effect that the Catholic press should not allow itself to introduce the Church into the arena of political strife.

Archbishop Satolli is well fitted for carrying out the enlightened policy of Pope Leo the Thirteenth. Leo, who teaches that a nation grown to manhood is not bound by the agreements of its infancy, that the people have a right to choose their own ruler. The visit of his Delegate, Monsigneur Satolli, who is so much imbued with the policy of his chief, and who is already an enthusiastic admirer of the United State, cannot fail to react favorably upon European peoples.

SOME FAMOUS ALPINE ASCENTS.
ARTHUR MONTEFIORE.

Condensed for THE LITERARY DIGEST from a Paper (11 pp.) in
Outing, New York, December.

merely to an act of Christian courtesy shown by officials of the greatest nation on earth to the representative of the Head of the strongest and oldest Christian denomination in the world. Archbishop Satolli visits this country under very favorable auspices. The Nation is not only courteous but friendly towards him. Representing Pope Leo at the Columbian Exposition, he comes as one directly promoting the success of the greatest enterprise ever undertaken; and he comes with a special recommendation to the hospitality of the two Catholic prelates whom the people have learned to look upon as the best exponents of American life-Cardinal Gibbons and Archbishop Ireland.

more difficult mountain to climb than Monte Rosa, and he is a good authority since he was not only the first man that ever gained the summit of the Weisshorn, but also the first, and probably the only one, that has reached the "Höchste Spitze" of the Rosa without a guide, and absolutely alone. Tyndall's first ascent of the Weisshorn was made on Aug. 19, 1861, in company with his guide, Johann Beven, and a man named Wenger. When they finally placed the pointed summit of the Weisshorn beneath their feet, Tyndall tells us, The long-pent-up feelings of my two guides found vent in a wild and reiterated cheer. Beven deplored having no flag to hoist as a monument of our achievement; it was then suggested that he should knock the head off his axe, use the

handle as a flagstaff and surmount it with a red pocket-handkerchief. This was done, and for some time subsequently this extempore banner was seen floating in the breeze."

The effect of the scene upon Professor Tyndall must have been intense, for he neglected his usual scientific observations. Every other mountain that he has climbed has afforded the occasion for illustrating or emphasizing some scientific fact or theory.

The descent was dangerous work, as avalanches were constantly falling near them. But still they went down, dropping from ledge to ledge, glissading over rock débris worn to powder, cutting steps down ice-slopes, and working round the edge of precipices, here having to skirt across the mountain face, and there having to reascend to dodge dangerous gullies, or round some difficult cornice on hands and knees, until, finally, they reached the glaciers in safety.

The Lyskamm, which rises to the height of 14,889 feet, is one of the most stupendous mountains in the High Alps. To the Alpine climber who appreciates not only actual height, but also the difficulties of ascent and ultimate view, there is hardly a mountain in the Germatt region that presents more varied attractions.

On the 19h of August, 1861, the very day that Tyndall had conquered the Weisshorn-a party of fifteen, under the leadership of the late Rev. John Frederick Hardy, of Cambridge University, started from Seiler's Inn, on the Riffel Berg, to conquer the virgin peak of the Lyskamm.

At 1.40 A.M., under a brilliant moon, the party started from the Riffel, and reached the glacier in about an hour's work. Crossing the glacier obliquely, they arrived at "Auf der Platte," at the foot of the Rosa, at 4.15 A.M. From the Lys Col, seven thousand feet above, the Grenz pours down wave upon wave of alternate hummock and crevasse, forming a most noble and difficult division between the sheer precipices of Monte Rosa and the snow-clad cliffs of the Lyskamm.

Up the glacier they had to go, and the party, being too large for one rope, was split into two divisions. The snow lying on the glacier was in excellent condition, but the crevasses so numerous as to make progress slow. For the first two hours the long line of climbers steadily pushed their way up in Indian file, and then, turning to the right, made straight up a stiff snow slope in the direction of the summit.

At nine o'clock the ascent of the arête was begun, Pierre Perren leading the way. It was a trying climb, the climometer showing the ascent in several places to be thirty-six degrees, and the incline of the slopes each side to be fifty-two. An hour's climbing on the arête brought the party to a small plateau, whence they could see the summit. The work before them was difficult enough, but victory seemed in sight. Step by step, hand over hand, a sudden slip, and as sudden a check by the rope, then a pause for a few minutes' rest, then again upwards. At last the snow ceased, and there remained nothing but a narrow and very steep slope of ice. Every footstep had to be made with the ice-axe, and every foot had to be planted in it. As we neared the summit Pierre Perren called out to Mr. Hardy, asking if he would like to be first man on the summit. "Oh yes,” replied Mr. Hardy, and in another minute the guide stood aside, hat in hand, "and I," said Mr. Hardy, in describing the occurrence, “found myself upon the summit, the first man that had ever trodden its eternal snows."

After remaining on the summit nearly an hour the descent of the arête was commenced, This was the most perilous part of the expedition. Face to the snow, hand under hand, looking between their legs for the footholds below, sudden slips, ominous pauses, the deep voices of the guides uttering words of caution and direction, the chip of the ice-axe, the deep plunge of its staff; at one time arrétez at another en avant quickly spoken, and this describes briefly the descent of the arête, which occupied two long hours of mental and bodily strain.

One of the most famous Alpine ascents on record was that of the Dôme du Gonber, made in 1858 by Sir Alfred Wills, later a Judge of the High Court of Justice, and Professor Tyndall.

The chief object of the ascent was to place a minimum-thermometer on the summit in order to determine the lowest winter temperature. The idea originated with Auguste Balmat, the famous guide who led and guided the party to and from the summit in safety, although at the summit they were enveloped in a blinding snow-storm, and on reaching the foot of the Calotte the guide discovered that his hands were frostbitten, necessitating delay and energetic measures for their relief in the howling wind and drifting snow.

Another famous ascent of members of the English Alpine Club was the first ascent of the Finsteraarhorn on Aug. 12, 1857.

This party consisted of Hardy and Kennedy, the two Matthews, and Ellis, and five guides, also a servant of Kennedy's, and a porter. Reaching the foot of the arête, the two latter were left behind and the party were unroped; August Simond, who was leading, deciding that "ici, chacun pour lui même.” The truth was that a slip of one must have destroyed the whole. At this arête they went, testing the foothold with the stock before trusting to it. Several times the stock pierced the snow and left a hole through which the glaciers could be seen thousands of feet below. But the party reached the summit in safety, and, after Hardy had led a chorus of cheers, the party sat down to rest and take in the vast magnificence of the view.

R

"

SOME NOTED AUSTRALIAN NUGGETS. Condensed for THE LITERARY DIGEST from a Paper (2pp.) in Chambers's Journal, Edinburgh, Dec. 1. EFERRING to an interesting article, entitled "Gold in Nature," appearing in this Journal April 19, 1890, and mentioning a nugget of 134 pounds weight found in South Australia" (Victoria ?) perhaps a reference to some noted Australian nuggets might be of interest. Chief among these nuggets comes the "Welcome Stranger," which contained over 2,300 ounces of gold, worth about £9,200, and was found on Feb. 5, 1869, at Moliagal, near Dunolly, in Victoria. Next in rank comes the Welcome" nugget, found at Bakery Hill, Ballarat, in the same colony, on June 11, 1878, at a depth of about 180 feet. This nugget weighed 2,200 ounces in the gross, and its net value was £8,780. It was sold for £10,000 to a party who wanted it for show purposes, and doubtless cleared thereby the difference in cost.

It would perhaps be a little too much to say that " nuggets have family ties," but though they usually "lie low," there are at times exceptions to the rule, and when found near the surface, as in the following instances, they are not infrequently!in groups. The selections referred to (found in 1870, '71 and '72) are taken from the record of the "Berlin" gold field, in Victoria, and do not include the many minor nuggets found in that locality.

"Precious" nugget, 1,717 ounces, value £6,868, Catto's Paddock, at a depth of 12 feet.

"Viscount Canterbury" nugget, 1,121 ounces, value £4,420, John's Paddock, at a depth of 15 feet.

Viscountess Canterbury" nugget, 896 ounces, value £3.656. Kum Torr" nugget, 795 ounces, value £2,872, Catto's Paddock, at a depth of 12 feet.

"Needful" nugget, 249 ounces, value £984, Catto's Paddock, at a depth of 12 feet.

Crescent" nugget, 179 ounces, value £704. John's Paddock, at a depth of 2 feet.

These members of the royal family of nuggets thus totaled nearly 5,000 ounces of gold, worth £19,384.

As a rule, the richest gold fields are not those where the largest nuggets are found, as witness the well-known Gulgong gold field. The largest piece of gold found on this field was only 64 ounces in weight, and was so thoroughly coated with ferric oxide that the man who was forking the gravel, etc., out of the sluice-box in which it was found, was going to throw it out, but that its weight attracted his attention.

Books.

By E.

THE STORY OF THE FRENCH REVOLUTION.
Belfort Bax. Second Edition. 12m0, pp. 119. London: Swan,
Sonnenschein & Co. 1892.

[The main events of the French Revolution are here narrated from the point of view of Modern Socialism. The object has been to give some idea of the complex forces, economical, speculative, and political, which manifested themselves between the assembling of the States-General in 1789 and the suppression of the Babœuf conspiracy in 1796. A fair idea of the spirit of the work may be had from the author's remarks concerning two economic measures passed by the Convention, Marie Antoinette, and Robespierre.]

THE

HE Mountain, aided by economic pressure, succeeded in forcing through two economic measures. These were, first, the Law of maximum, which enacted a forced price for breadstuffs, above which it was penal to sell them. To avert the possibility of the dealers refusing to sell at all, it was made compulsory upon them to do so. They were, moreover, obliged to furnish accurate accounts of their stock, which could, if desirable be peremptorily "checked" by the authorities. The law was subsequently extended to all the necessaries of life. The other economic measure was a progressive income-tax on an ascending scale. The Girondists and the Plain, of course, shrieked and kicked at these glaring infringements of the "laws" of political economy and the rights of property.

The law of maximum and the progressive revenue-tax are the only two measures of a directly Socialistic tendency which have ever been practically applied, and they were applied with complete success. And yet it is strange that at least the first of these measures, when proposed nowadays, is viewed by many Socialists with indifference, not to say suspicion. It only shows how, in economies, as in other things, the rags of old superstitions unconciously survive in us. Those who have triumphed over the old-fashioned bourgeois fallacies of the wickedness and inutility of interfering with the sacred laws of political economy by direct legislative interference with the freedom of production, still wince at the notion of direct legislative interference with freedom (so-called) of exchange. Bad harvests, the devastations of foreign invasion, and civil war had reduced France to the lowest ebb. The law of maximum saved it.

On the 14th of October, 1793, the Queen, Marie Antoinette, was brought before the Revolutionary Tribunal and convicted, after two days' hearing, on overwhelming evidence, of the basest treachery towards France, and of the most sanguinary intentions with regard to Paris. It was indeed high time that this atrocious woman met her deserts. When the country was at the lowest depths of misery, some years before the outbreak of the Revolution, all this abandoned wretch could think of was squandering fabulous sums of the nation's wealth, in conjunction with her friend, the Court head-prostitute and procuress, the Princess de Lamballe (killed in the September massacres), on jewels, balls, and sinecures for her paramours. If any one ventured to call attention to some flagrant abuse in her presence, he was invariably silenced with the remark, "Yes, but we must amuse ourselves." It was only after her amusements had been curtailed by the utter collapse of the finances, a consummation to which she had contributed so largely by her criminal extravagances, that she began to interest herself in public affairs. Her aim was then to get back the means for her debaucheries; and when the Revolution broke out, and affairs looked less and less productive of diamond necklaces and the like, her hatred against the new régime, which had deprived her of those things, naturally knew no bounds, and henceforth her one hope was a foreign invasion which would quench the Revolution in the blood of France, and place the French people once more in her power. As for poor, feeble, foolish Louis, he was completely in the toils of this noxious reptile. Many who looked on at the tumbril conveying her to execution must have been inclined to think that the guillotine was too good for the foul Autrichienne.

Robespierre probably was, as Carlyle suggests, neither better nor worse than other attorneys to start with. In his case, however, ambition ultimately assumed the mastery over his whole personality. This was partly owing to the fact that he was undeniably a man without a vice (in the ordinary sense of the word). Now, very exceptional men only can afford to be without the ordinary vices of mankind, and certainly Robespierre was not one of these men. With his ascetic Rousseauite notions of republican austerity, he had suppressed his natural

appetites, the consequence being that all the morbid elements in his his character, having no other outlet, ran into the channel of selfidolatry and morbid ambition. The first ambition of a well-regulated man is to know how to distribute the quantum of vice with which a bountiful nature has endowed him. A false morality teaches him to suppress it. But this he can seldom do; and, if he succeeds, it is at the expense of all or much that is distinctive in his character. In tearing off the coating of vice, he tears off his skin with it. The usual case is, however, that the vice is not got rid of at all, but only forced into some out-of-the-way channel. And wherever vice is concentrated, it is bad. When all the vice of a character is focussed on any single one of the natural appetites, a man becomes a sot, a satyr, a glutton, a confirmed gambler or something equally bad. Now Robespierre sat upon all the usual valves. He and his ascetic band poured scorn on the Hébertists and Dantonists alike for the "looseness " of their lives. Yet, having closed up all the ordinary exits, his vice came out none the less, but concentrated in the form of a truculent, remorseless ambition, unparalleled in history.

THE QUINTESSENCE OF SOCIALISM. Dr. A. Schäffle. English Edition, Translated from the Eighth German Edition, under the Supervision of Bernard Bosanquet, M. A., formerly Fellow of University College, Oxford. Fourth Edition. 12mo, pp. 127. New York: Charles Scribner's Sons. 1892.

[It is claimed in the Preface that this is the only publication which explains the scheme of collectivism, and treats it in a scientific way. Dr. Schäffle, formerly Minister of Finances in Austria, is the author of several important works, and one of the most eminent of German economists. His definition of Socialism, by no means new, is that it is "the transformation of private and competing capitals into a united collective capital." Where this book excels, however, is in stating the detailed consequences of the collectivist principle, showing how it is proposed to transform the several fundamental institutions of modern national economy. Among the many interesting points of the work is the explanation of what the Socialists mean by saying that "property is theft."]

It is, however, a great, though very widely spread, misunderstanding to interpret Proudhon's words, " Property is Robbery," to mean that the Socialist regards all propertied persons as thieves, in the common sense of the word, and ranks the most honorable trader side by side with the persons who appropriate other people's belongings by the aid of dark lanterns and false keys.

Nothing can be more mistaken than this interpretation of the words, which make many persons regard communism as condemned on the very face of it. The real meaning of the assertion that capital, i. c., the private capital of to-day, is robbery, or, as Lassalle says, Fremdthum," namely, that it represents an anarchical form of property, and must be superseded by the true form based on labor, is, as every thinker clearly sees, a very different thing!

We find the essence of the Socialist criticism of property most clearly brought out by Karl Marx, the most authoritative leader and thinker of the proletariat. He begins by showing that the mass of private capital inherited from early times rests originally on conquest, the dispossession of former owners, confiscation of peasant farms, plundering of colonies, abuse of political power, protective duties, division of secularized ecclesiastical property, and so on; but he does not charge Peter or Paul, the actual inheritor of the property to-day, with robbery. Nor is he much concerned to pronounce judgment on those ancient forms of the original accumulation of capital"; and he also deals very cursorily with the latest form of capital plunder, which is amassed by stock-exchange corruption, parliamentary jobbery, and newspaper bribery. He rather examines the process of the formation of capital, which is the only form possible under the present recognized economic system, and is, therefore, under present circumstances, normal, perfectly legal, and wholly unavoidable.

Now, Marx maintains that the mass of invested capital which is forming and increasing in the present day arises out of the returns on capital, and is saved out of employers' profits and not out of wages. This is no doubt true. He further recognizes fully that every capitalist who wishes to hold his own in the "anarchical" social system of * Property is Eigen-thum, eigen meaning "one's own." Lassalle calls it Fremd-thum, replacing the word "own" by the word " alien." Not meum but tuum, or rather alienum.

competition of which he forms a part, must take his share of the accretions to capital from profits; otherwise he would himself come to grief and lose his position. He says plainly: My standpoint, from which the evolution of the economic formation of society is viewed as a process of natural history, can, less than any other, make the individual responsible for relations whose creature he socially remains, however much he may subjectively raise himself above them."

Marx is therefore far from regarding acquisition of capital as robbery in the subjective sense, or demanding from any capitalist who has to work on the basis of the existing system, that he should cease to struggle for the highest profits and the utmost possible accumulation of capital. But objectively, in connection with the whole fundamentally distorted organization of production in the present day, the private accumulation of capital must nevertheless, according to him, stand condemned as an exploitation of labor, as cheating, as extortion. The returns to capital, out of which great private fortunes are amassed, yield such great accumulation and superfluity only because the wagelaborer receives in money-wage less than the full value of the produce of his work, and must let the surplus-value daily fall to the share of the capitalists' profits. There goes on, under the mask of a wage-system, the daily and hourly exploitation of the wage-earners, and capital becomes a vampire, a money-grabber, and a thief. Yet subjectively, the respectable citizen is free from blame.

IOLA LEROY; OR, SHADOWS UPLIFTED. By Frances E. W. Harper. Cloth, 12mo., 280 pp. Philadelphia: Garrigues Brothers. 1892,

[Iola Leroy is a tale of Southern life. covering the period from before the war to the period of reconstruction that followed it. Its aim is to illustrate that phase of the "peculiar institution" which made the slaveholder's children born slaves -mere chattels in fact, provided they had any taint, however slight, of African blood; and still more the revolting possibility, warranted, let us hope, rarely in experience, that even when the father manumitted and married the mother, and caused his children to be brought up in Northern schools ignorant of the fact that they had African blood in their veins, it was still open to the collateral heirs, on the father's death, to bring suit to have the act of manumission set aside on plea of informality. This is a step to which they would have been sorely tempted, first, by the value of the property at stake, secondly, by the state of public opinion, an opinion against which even the Judges were not proof, that the faintest trace of Negro blood unfitted a person for social or civil equality with the white race. The author, who is herself a colored woman, touches lightly on Northern prejudices on the same line, but sufficiently to inculcate the moral for her people, that, as long as existing prejudices shall survive, their proper and wisest course will be to hold themselves apart, as a distinct people, and carve out an independent career for themselves. The following is a slender outline of the story.]

EUG

UGENE LEROY, a young Southern Creole of French and Spanish family, inherited a large estate on the banks of the Mississippi. In the cities of the North, and of Europe, he had led a fast life, and his health was shattered. On his return to the South he suffered from a protracted, severe illness, during which he was nursed by a young girl, who had little taint of dark blood, and had been very carefully brought up by a high-principled woman who was her former owner, and who intended to manumit her. Death came before these good intentions were carried into effect, and Leroy's steward purchased the girl. Leroy, during his sickness, was so charmed with Marie's purity and womanly delicacy, and with the native vigor of her intelligence, that as soon as he recovered he sent her to a Northern seminary, and on her graduation manumitted and married her.

There were three children of the union, Iola, Harry, and Gracie, and, although the family was of course ostracized by Southern society, the children grew up in ignorance of the taint in their blood, until a disposition on the part of their school-fellows to ostracize them determined Leroy to send the two older ones North to complete their education, and to make arrangements for himself either to live North, or, go to France.

Years passed by. Iola was about to graduate from the seminary, when the pending Civil War became the chief topic of discussion, and Leroy and Marie determined to go North for the summer. The yellow fever broke out, and Leroy succumbed to it at Vicksburg. Before he died he placed his will in Marie's hands, telling her that he had left her well provided for.

Leroy's cousin, Lorraine, at once brought suit to declare the manumission and marriage void, the Judge upheld the plea, and Lorraine

sought to get possession of Iola by summoning her to her father's sick-bed, while her mother was too prostrated to write to her.

Iola returned only to be claimed as a slave by Lorraine, but she made so desperate a fight against all amorous advances, that she changed hands several times in short order, and was still asserting her independence when the Union troops freed her, and made her a hospital nurse. Here she won the regard of Dr. Gresham, who wanted to marry her, and who renewed his proposals after the war; but lola's sympathy had been awakened for her mother's race, and she realized that she would place herself in a false position by marrying out of it. After the War, Iola recovered her mother, and found her uncle, her mother's brother, and got into a very nice set of cultivated people of her own social status, one of whom, a Dr. Laumer, she married. The young couple settled in North Carolina; and here Iola entered on a life of wide usefulness in the broad field which emancipation opened to her.

THE WELL-DRESSED WOMAN: A Study in the Practical Application to Dress of the Laws of Health, Art, and Morals. By Helen Gilbert Ecob. Illustrated. Cloth, 12m0, 253 pp. New York: Fowler & Wells Co. 1892.

[As is suggested by the sub-title of this little volume, the art of personal adornment is subordinated to the science of dressing well. "The laws of dress," says our author, "relate to hygiene, art, and morals. : To observe the laws of art in dress and ignore the laws of health is impossible. To observe the laws of art and health and be disloyal to the morals of dress is equally impossible. . Any study of dress, therefore, is defective which does not clearly define the laws of health and beauty and morals." These fundamental propositions give promise of a broad, serious treatment of the subject, a promise amply redeemed in the text. In the bearing of dress on health, the author aims less at originality than at presenting the views of those members of the medical profession who have mado the subject their special study. Naturally there is nothing but unqualified condemnation for the corset. No woman. says the author, can see the hidden line where moderate lacing becomes tight-lacing, just as no man can see when moderate drinking becomes hard-drinking. A woman can no more be trusted with a corset than a drunkard with a glass of whiskey."

Two-thirds of the volume is devoted to the subject of dress as bearing on the laws of hygiene; the remaining chapters are devoted severally to Physical Development. Beauty of Form, Grace of Motion, The Principles of Art Applied to Dress, and Moral Significance of Dress. Some of the chapters may strike the fashionable woman as "horridly sensible," but every intelligent woman will find something to interest her in the Chapter on Art Principles Applied to Dress, ot which we submit an outline.]

THAT

HAT a stylish dress is in no sense a beautiful dress is proved by the fact that, when out of date, it is outré and grotesque. Gowns made in accordance with artistic principles are never out of date, for the beautiful is eternal-the same yesterday, to-day, and forever.

Art is practical and logical. Artistic dress is common sense in dress. An artistic gown is first of all comfortable; in form, color, and texture it is adapted to the build, complexion, and character of the wearer. Its structure never depends on the latest style, nor on what is worn, but on what is becoming. Nothing can be less artistic than the system that now reigns of loading the figure with clothes, the aim being to use the figure to display the clothes, and not the clothes to display the figure.

The principles from which the laws of dress are derived are found in the structure of the human form, and until we have learned to appreciate the functions and beauty of the body no advance can be made in its vesture. Conventional dress has divided the feminine form into two distinct sections; the trunk which is encased in a bodice, and the legs, which are transformed by stiff petticoats and skirts into a solid immovable mass, sometimes resembling in outline a beehive, sometimes a bell, sometimes a fan, sometimes a donkey with panniers. The first mistake is the arbitrary division of the body into sections. There is no waist-line in the body and therefore the mantua-maker has no right to make one in gowns. The clothing of the lower part of the body is based upon another false principle. It ignores the natural outline of the legs, and the laws of motion. The aim of clothing should be, not a figure cased in clothes, each portion being accurately fitted with a case of its own from the neck to the feet, but a draped figure. The woman who would be well draped must keep constantly in mind the long, oval contour of the feminine figure, and dress so that this outline will be preserved.