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big, well-nourished girls hygienically brought up who are to be seen all over the country have large feet in proportion to their welldeveloped bodies. These sport-enjoying, healthy, freedom-loving women of America may clothe their feet properly, sensibly and comfortably and trudge along mile after mile with ease. It is not necessary for the feet to look clumsy, even though low heels and thick-soled boots are worn. These are made so trimly now that they give a stylish look to the foot and well-fitted and well-chosen are the finishing part of an up-to-date costume. The popular boots fit snugly over the instep. They have rounded toes, glazed kid or patent leather tips, thick soles and comparatively low heels. Either lace or button boots are worn. The more dressy boots are of patent and enamel leather, with kid tops.

As in the case of alteration in styles of toes, so have heels been altered as well. The level-footed sandal was first heightened by raising the back end of the sole. As is usual with new departures, extremes followed in course of time the innovation of heels, as they have in other portions of the shoe. From the rather insignificant rise of a single lift, it attained the height of the French heel of Louis XIV, reaching the limit in the stilt-like Swiss "choppine.” At a later period, heels gradually became lower and lower until the common-sense heel was evolved. Now there is a tendency to grow again and although the high tapering little French heel is but little used for street wear, the popular Cuban and military heels elevate the wearer to a considerable height.

The woman who aims that her footwear shall be correct in every particular and entirely up-to-date must have a wardrobe well stocked with various styles of shoes. She should have one or two pairs of heavy shoes for general out-door wear. These walking shoes have heavy soles, low, flat heels, broad, round toes and may have calf skin or kid tops. They may be laced or button, according to her fancy, and the extent of her means will determine whether or not these boots are purchased ready made or are made to measure by a fashionable bootmaker. However, the advent of elegant factorymade shoes on the latest style lasts and from the most approved fashions and designs, renders the ordering of footwear to measure unnecessary. For golfing she wears a sturdy high-cut russet boot, with rubber discs on the soles to prevent slipping, and for pedestrian excursions, country wear or mountain climbing, an extra high-cut boot of heavy black or tan grain leather, with thick extension soles are necessary. If she rides horse-back, a pair of patent leather riding boots which reach almost to the knee are indispensable. They are made just like a man's boot, with neither laces or buttons, and have plain rounded toes with low, flat heels. For receptions, of fine Dongola and patent or enamel leather vamps and Louis XIV heels. In the evening my lady is resplendent in Oxford ties of patent or enamel leather, or slippers may be made of satin to match her gowns. Handsome kid slippers, either jet embroidered or finished with a large buckle are also among the shoes for evening wear. For rainy days the woman who does not care to be encumbered with heavy shoes has a layer of cork placed between the outsole and insole of her shoe. Rubbers are also made in every style, size and shape of toe. For milady's boudoir are to be found neatly quilted satin or felt bed-room slippers, with fur tops and in every conceivable color. These are appropriate for younger women, while “Old Ladies' Comfort" shoes and slippers in sombre hues are more suitable for women advanced in years.

Although new lasts are being constantly introduced into progressive factories, a glance at the prevailing and probable styles of boots and shoes reveals the fact that so great have been the improvements in the style and finish in footwear during the past few years that the outcome of perfection in this direction seems to have been almost attained. It is cause for but little wonder, therefore, that the standard and staple lines for the coming season will show but little change in style from those of the season just closed. The common sense styles seem to be satisfactory, as there is no radical change demanded in the style of lasts. The popularity of heavy shoes is evidenced by the large quantities sold. For comfort and durability, shoes thus made cannot be excelled. They possess also a neat style, for, although somewhat masculine in appearance, the lines are dainty and graceful. The thick, round-toed laced or buttoned shoes, continue in favor all through the lines. These have extension soles, rope stitched and are made of glazed kid, patent or enamel leather, and some have bright vamps with dull tops. The strictly bull-dog toe, so popular two or three years ago, is, however, no longer in vogue, and although the extension of the sole continues, women's shoes are being made rather lighter and have more of a feminine look. This as regards walking shoes. For carriage or house wear shoes and slippers are light and dainty as could be desired.

The Colonial tie is now very popular for women. It is an imitation of the shoe worn by women in the Revolutionary period, and is a fair representation, following closely the original type. Any modifications made by our manufacturers have tended to render the tie of the present day an improvement over its Colonial contemporary. A conspicuous feature in this shoe is the high, flaring leather tongue, which forms the background for a large buckle. The great variety of beautiful, artistic and tasty goods in this line The latest Colonial tie has somewhat narrower toe than has been the prevailing fashion during the immediate past. These ties are made with one and one-half inch military or "steeple heels" or with one and three-fourth inch Louis heels. The making of these lasts and fitting the shoe over them is a delicate operation, requiring great expertness. The lasts are made with considerable fullness under the ball, so that when being worn the ball of the shoe, instead of the toe, will strike the pavement. The shank is high, so as to carry a high heel. These shoes are exceedingly attractive and when properly made are par-excellence. They are to be much used for out-door wear and lighter varieties of it are being made for indoor use. They are made of glazed kid, dull Dongola, patent or enameled leather. They have plain rounded toes, comparatively narrow, without tips.

Regarding the buckles, their name is legion. Of couse, there are the regulation oblong and oval brass and nickeled buckles to be used on patent or enameled leather ties; then a little variety is added by a plaited or twisted brass buckle, round or oval, with two fastening pins instead of one. The elegance of some flat oval brass buckles is further enhanced by rhinestone settings. The most elegant of all is the small oval gold buckle handsomely chased. Among the novelties is the gun metal buckle, which produces a handsome effect upon a Dongola or a Mat kid tie. Leather covered buckles are also used.

The greatest novelties, but not altogether the most tasty, perhaps, are the oval flat steel buckels, with black satin ‘or red plush or velvet as a background, and used on bright red shoes. These ties are sometimes made with laces or buttons under the tongue, or have Colonial front with high tops fastened with buttons or laces. A Colonial tie of dull Dongola with black oxydized buckle, or buckle covered with dull kid is especially suitable for mourning. A patent or enamel leather tie with bow of velvet to match the gown, and heel covered with the same, the bow being topped off with jeweled gold buckle, has rather a "Frenchy" appearance. Another chic affair has a buckle with rhinestone setting and red leather Louis heels. For evening dress, ties are made of shades of Swede to match the gowns. These have gold or silver buckles, the most expensive having jeweled settings.

Almost as many varieties in footwear are shown for men as for women. For general street wear, the heavy calf shoe, with thick, rounded toe, extension edge and low broad heel continues in favor. For more dressy occasions, patent or enamel leather vamps, with glazed kid tops are used, and in summer, all glazed kid uppers in the high shoes, or Oxfords of glazed kid, patent or enameled leather grain leather, laced to the knee; they have double soles, with extension edges. The correct shoe for golf is a high-cut laced shoe. It is supplied with a sensible heel and rubber discs attached to the sole to prevent slipping. It has a curved and pointed tip, which extends along the side of the shoe and is bordered with elaborate stitching. The equestrian's footwear is an important part of his apparel, and he gives it no little attention. He may wear top boots of patent or enameled leather, or of russet calf skin. These have stiff legs or have a few wrinkles just above the instep, where leg and foot join. Or he may wear "Tattersalls" or full length leather leggins strapped over a laced, button or Congress shoe, with plain medium toe minus a tip.

Box calf is a leather much used in men's shoes. It is so called because of the figure imprinted on the grain. The figure is made by boarding the grain with a hand board in the finishing; the skin is simply boarded two ways in opposite directions, which gives a figure resembling a box.

The wearing of boots by men for general use, has about disappeared in the cities. The swell of the present day, would look askance at the footgear of his predecessors of a half century ago. The dandy of that day regarded his boots as the most stunning part of his attire, and it was a source of much concern that they should be turned out by the fashionable bootmaker. The broad heel, tapering to the toe ,similar to ladies' slippers to-day, which were so stylish years ago would, cause a shudder of horror to men wearing the modish creations of the present.

One hundred years ago men of the better class wore low-cut shoes of stout calf skin. The heels were low and broad, the toes square and blunt. A huge buckle adorned the front.

In their way, children's and infant's shoes have received as much care and attention in their making as adults, and the contrast between shoes worn by children of the present and the little ones of long ago, is just as marked as that noticeable among shoes for their elders. Infants and children's goods, in which the closest attention is paid to the smallest detail, are turned out in vast quantities all over this State, as well as other sections of the country. The clumsy appearance formerly seen in this class of goods is altogether avoided, while the ease and comfort so essential to children's feet is always kept in view.

As was the case with the parents' shoes, and perhaps even to a greater degree, children's shoes during the past generation were very crude compared with those made to-day.

A child's shoe made probably fifty years ago, was shown to the writer recently. It is a hand-made, laced shoe, of veal calf. The

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SHOE ROOM PROCESS OF MAKING RUBBER SHOHs.

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