buildings," said he, "will be agreeably surprised. The establishments are new, modern, substantially built structures. American machinery is employed and progressive methods adopted. The factories front on the street to the height of two stories, and are usually faced to a height of about eight feet from the ground with glazed brick; from that up pressed brick is used. The stock and packing rooms are on the second floor, the office occupying the space through the center of the same floor front to rear.

The factory proper is one story high, extending in the rear of the two-story building and is lighted by large sky-lights. A high ceiling admits of space for shafting and insures ample ventilation. The proprietor, from his commanding position in the office, has an unobstructed view from the end towards the factory, which is of glass, of every department of the works and can overlook in a moment all that occurs. Rules governing the management of the labor there, are different from those observed here. Work begins at eight o'clock; one hour is allowed for dinner, and the day's labors end at six, except when particularly busy and the factory runs until eight o clock."

The evident intention of the European makers is to reproduce American style and finish and to imitate the footwear fashions in vogue in this country. Signs and show cards, indicating that American footwear is sold are plentiful in London and Paris shops.

Men's shoes in Paris are, for the most part, limited to few styles and have somewhat effeminate appearance, looking more like women's shoes than men's. They are poorly lasted, soon lose shape, and are not neatly finished inside.

A French woman may be magnificently gowned; her hat the latest Parisian creation, her jewels the most costly and her other garments faultless, but her shoes, unless imported from America, lack style and the general effect is entirely spoiled. "Bootees," flexible at instep and ankle, resembling accordeon pleating, are noticeable among poor women. Shoes with wooden soles and leather uppers are worn in Paris. Felt shoes are seen and wooden shoes are largely worn among the poorer classes. The manufacture of shoes in Paris is on a limited scale. Few large factories are there, but in adjacent towns many such abound where goods of a medium grade are made. Fine hand-sewed shoes are made in Paris, but their manufacture is confined to small manufacturers, who occupy a room or two for the purpose.

American products are steadily winning their way all over Europe, although it is only within the last few years that manufacturers have bestowed attention upon foreign markets as an outlet for their production. American manufacturers in other lines are successfully reaching more distant fields and demonstrating that American pro

tinental nations, and why may not shoes be added to that category also?

An era of low-priced shoes appears to have struck European markets, the demand being largely for the cheapest grades. Manufacturers have, therefore, directed their attention to the production of a shapely and elegant looking shoe at the expense of its wearing qualities, and it would seem that if an article combining durability with tastefulness of appearance could be introduced it would sell well. Competition has become so keen across the water that manufacturers are using every means to cheapen production. Machinery and labor-saving devices are being introduced, goods are being turned out in large quantities to cheapen the cost and makers are selling directly to the retail trade to save middleman's profit.

Italian footwear is for the most part beautiful. Some are made of one piece of leather, the only seam extending from the ball of the foot to the first button. The upper leather extends down to the sole and heel, completely covering the latter. No tips are used and high cut shoes with high heels are the rule.

While foreign-made shoes for the most part are rough, crude-looking affairs, many are models of careful, painstaking workmanship. Some have embroidered fancy work, beading and other ornamentation. European boots are notably excellent.

A number of shoes made in Europe were recently sent to a manufacturer here to be duplicated. One sample was an infant's sandal of tan calf. It was McKay sewed and had paper stock lining. The heels had been attached with brass nails, evidently by hand, and instead of a spring heel there was merely a top lift. A fancy colored pompon instead of bow decorated the front. The channel was wide open owing to the absence of groove for the thread, which was much too large and coarse. Altogether it was an odd-looking shoe. Another specimen was a woman's button boot. It was made of sheepskin and had pasted heels, and sock lining of white sheep. This was a turn shoe, with a narrow toe. A black tassel decorated the front. Shoemaking is one of the most flourishing industries in Russia. Leather boots and low or half shoes are mostly in use. Fine shoes are worn in the cities, while in the country only those of Russian manufacture are worn, owing to their cheapness and durability. The Russian manufacture is good and cheap, but is not so elegant as the imported goods. The shape of the average foot is pointed and narrow. Heels usually incline toward the Frenchy—high and narrow. Button and lace shoes are chiefly in demand in that market. In summer, low shoes have the preference. A large demand is for top boots. Officers wear an extra quality of calf and

family, being officers of the army, are, it is said "always dressedat church, ball or at home-in parade or field uniform, with their trousers inside their handsome patent leather top boots." The ordinary laborers wear a coarse quality of shoes, made of horse leather. The Russians manufacture a good article of rubber shoes, with American machinery, and export the same to most of the northern countries of the empire.

There is one large factory in St. Petersburg making boots and shoes with American machinery, and two or three smaller factories in Poland that also use American machinery.

In Siberia, leather is largely used as an article of dress by the natives. During the milder part of the year, a robe made of very pliable leather, stained with yellow dye, is worn outdoors and indoors is frequently laid aside. Women wear boots made of this leather. They fit tight to the leg and have at the top, a flap of black leather with red cloth trimming, which can be turned down and exposed for show in fair weather, or, in stormy weather turned up, bringing the boots to the thigh. On each boot are two large leather thongs, five or six feet long, to wind around the leg. Waterproof boots, called by the Russians "torbasis," are made there. These are cut from horse hide, steeped in sour milk, then smoked and finally rubbed well with fat and fine soot. They last exceedingly well and are said to be of inestimable comfort to the wearer, enabling him to tramp through snow, water and mud without inconvenience. The dwellings of the Siberians in winter have doors of raw hide.

The production of boots and shoes in Belguim is ample to cover the national wants and to partly supply Holland. Brussels, Antwerp and other large towns have a number of large factories. Luxury is not great in footwear, but some of the women's shoes come from Paris.

In Holland men's lace, button and congress shoes are in greatest demand. As a general thing styles are very poor and in a large majority of cases are quite shabby in appearance. In the cities, workmen in various industries wear common shoes. In the country the farmer's shoes are not quite as heavy as those worn by American farmers. The women use button or lace; in the better grades tips are worn and medium toes. In men's shoes, the tips are narrow and a little elongated. Materials most in use are satin-calf, calfskin, glazed kid and Dongola. Slippers and low shoes, with wooden heels, are worn. The average shape of boot is toward flat and broad. Paris made, high class shoes find a good market, while Vienna supplies only cheap slippers for women, in black, brown and white, with wooden heels. Local shoe manufacture is of importance

fancy shoes at moderate prices, and workmen require low-cut heavy Bluchers.

Sweden, with its population of five millions, has a considerable consumption of leather and of boots and shoes. There are eighteen or twenty relatively large shoe factories and numerous custom shops, employing twenty-five to forty workers each, and new factories are being established. The greater part of the men's shoes manufactured in Sweden are made of horse hide, very seldom of calf or kangaroo leathers, but patent leather and all kinds of glazed kid in black and colors are used. The ladies' articles are made of calf, kangaroo and all kinds of kid and sheep leather. In summer the well-to-do men wear patent leather and colored calf-skin shoes; the ladies, morocco of different colors, among which even green finds a place. Brown and yellow shoes are very much in evidence among both sexes.

In Stockholm an American shoe factory has been established and American mechanics engaged in manufacture of shoes according to American methods. In that city also, are several more shoe manufactories, also numerous leather dealers and large shoemakers' establishments for hand-sewed work.

"In planning an incursion into the European markets, American manufacturers of boots and shoes should not overlook Switzerland," writes a United States consul in that country. "During the past three years, boots and shoes amounting to $28,860 have been imported from this country, indicating the invasion by American shoemakers. This increase averages about 50 per cent. each year. "These statistics," the report continues, "give only the figures of the direct importation and do not convey a correct idea of the number actually imported, for most of them come from distributing points in Germany, and are entered at the Swiss frontier as originating in that country. Although the manufacture of boots and shoes is one of the leading industries of the Swiss Confederacy, considerable importations, however, are made. Five years ago it was not possible to buy an American shoe in Switzerland, but now it is no novelty to see in the shop windows of the largest towns shoes with a little American flag displayed thereon, and the announcement that they are American made. At Lucerne, two year ago, there was not a shop which kept American shoes; last year five of them had them on sale, and sold out their entire stock and could have sold more had they had them on hand. This is despite the fact that one of the largest shoe factories in the world (turning out 5,000 pairs of shoes a day) is situated in Switzerland, and is an important exporter to the Latin-Americar countries."

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It is estimated the four-fifths of the annual consumption of footwear in Switzerland is of domestic production. The general rule is rough, heavy, coarse leather footyear, usually cheap, unshapely and clumsy, although some of the local makers are fair.

A peculiarity of the Swiss boot and shoe trade is that a finer grade of footwear is made for their export than for their domestic trade, while the importations include both high and low grade shoes. The boots and shoes imported from the United States are of a higher grade and price than the domestic article. A considerable amount of the commoner footwear used by the agricultural and laboring classes, as well as by the poorer classes of citizens in the cities, is made in the penitentiaries of the cheapest material obtainable. Just as Switzerland both exports and imports boots and shoes she also does a considerable trade each way in skins, rawhides and in leather. Owing to the great numbers of tourists in Switzerland, good retail stores abound.

In Germany, the styles of shoes are more modern and in conformity with American ideas, although the people in Germany apparently care but little for the appearance of their feet. If their other apparel is of good material and stylish in cut the people are evidently satisfied. Wooden shoes are largely worn by the peasantry; in fact, the number of wooden shoes still worn by Europeans in country villages is surprising.

It is said among the many fads of Emperor William is his passion for collecting boots and shoes of famous people; his collection of this particular article of attire constituting a fitting adjunct to his huge museum of uniforms. The collection is kept in the marble palace at Potsdam and there are some two thousand pairs, ranging from Greek sandals and a pair of slippers reputed to have belonged to the great prophet Mahomet, to the boots of Wallenstein, of Gustavus Adolphus, of Peter the Great and of Napoleon Bonaparte. It is said the Kaiser is desirous of adding some of the footwear of George Washington to this collection.

The writer recently met and interviewed a shoe manufacturer from Vienna, Austria, who was touring this section, inspecting some of the local factories in order to become more familiar with the methods employed in making American shoes. These methods. have since been put into operation in his factory in Vienna. His establishment is now equipped with the most modern American appliances for making shoes, and is said to be the first in that city to introduce Goodyear machines. He manufactures men's, women's, misses', children's and infants' shoes, including soft soles and slippers. In 1885 he first started to manufacture in a small way and